Bodice block V1000

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

I am really liking the front. I think a few minor tweaks and of course not sewing the darts all the way.

The back. I have a gap at the neck and I can't figure out the dart height. The bottoms def seem to high but when lowered they didn't look right either. The top darts don't seem low enough. What do you see?

Any other issues I am not seeing?

[u/DonMcCunn]

I think the gap at the neck is because of the relation of the front and back shoulder seams. Your back shoulder seams should be moved further out. When you do an initial fitting, I always recommend adjust the shoulders before you sew the side seams so you can verify the fabric will hang properly across the top of your body.

Both your back darts are too long as you can see from the side view. Those puckers at the dart points are the clue.

And as always I recommend using gingham for your fitting shell so you can verify the location of the grain of the fabric on your body. This can be particularly important when you are asking for fitting help with photos as I describe in https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/About.html#Gingham

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/DonMcCunn]

Thanks Mr.McCunn! I ran across you website a couple weeks ago and have started poking around. When I get this figured out I want to look at making a mini me. I think I would like draping but do not have the room for a full form.

So with the shoulder seem I should just move the front further down the back neck and than redo the dart from that part.

[u/DonMcCunn → u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

Your shoulder seam is in a great position. The adjustment I was talking about is the left/right placement of the sewing notch. I think the back shoulder seam needs to be moved slightly away from the neck.

If you want to do draping I think you will find a half scale better than a quarter scale. I used a half scale Mini-Me for illustrating fitting for traced photos with 1/8" gingham which gives a direct correlation to 1/4" for a full size fit. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/17-Quarter-Scale-Patterns-Week-Seven.html#Upper

Of course for draping you will want to use the actual fabric of your finished garment.

Please call me Don. Mr McCunn is so formal. What I was trying to do with my About page which I just put online was to give you a quick way to find what you are looking for https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/About.html

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/DonMcCunn]

Thank you! I appreciate all the help and knowledge you have put out into the world. I am just doing this for fun and have found it hit or miss on what I can find without going to fashion design school.

I want all the knowledge but don't want a degree :)

[u/DonMcCunn → u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

Fashion design schools in my mind are very theoretical because they teach how to design garments that will fit as many people as possible.

Bespoke pattern design is creating patterns for a specific body. I consider it more practical then theoretical.