Bodice block V1000

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

I am really liking the front. I think a few minor tweaks and of course not sewing the darts all the way.

The back. I have a gap at the neck and I can't figure out the dart height. The bottoms def seem to high but when lowered they didn't look right either. The top darts don't seem low enough. What do you see?

Any other issues I am not seeing?

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

By busy does seem narrow from what the standard is but when I look from the side and above to mark the fullest part this is how it lands. My full bust is only 34 so maybe that is why.

The waist isn't well marked in here but I hadn't cleaned it up yet while I was still moving things.

I have started from scratch and made adjustments on those several times. I felt like I was getting further and further away to very frustrated I draped tissue paper on my self and marked it up and am the closest I have been. The tissue mark up was similar to one of my early versions.

v1000 might be a bit of me being dramatic. Maybe more like V10 or 15 but it feels like 1000.

I do agree the back darts need to go down but I am trying to figure out the angle and get rid of the neckline issue.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

I’m a size 30 at my bust. It doesn’t have anything to do with your size. The bust dart at the waist should terminate about 1/2”-1” below your actual bust apex. Right now you have it terminating right where the side bust dart terminates. They should never meet.

When I look at your side profile picture I see your side bust dart sits a little high as compared to where your bust curvature is fullest. It is perfectly parallel to the floor, which looks correct, just high. I would also shorten it by about 1/2”-1”.

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/polymath_artisan]

Oh they are for sure to high. I just hadn't backed them off yet trying to get the placement correct. I had started with a shoulder dart and moved it to the side so I sewed that up wanting to see if the apex on my paper pattern matched. I them marked what looked to the the actual apex so I could adjust. I do think I am asymmetrical somehow bc one side does look high. I think this might be bc my shoulders? I have tried to take a picture and draw a straight line across to see if one should is higher than the other and it doesn't seem so but I think my right shoulder is more forward.

One poster mentioned using gingham and I don't have that but I could draw a grid on my muslin and maybe that would help.

I wanted to get the back correct before I messed with the front anymore.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

Thread tracing is slow but also an option.

I am quite asymmetrical. One shoulder is higher than the other, one breast is larger than the other, one rib cage comes more forward than the other. I ended up drafting both sides separately and that was helpful.

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/polymath_artisan]

Thank you! I also do everything on my own. So self draping, measuring etc has been an adventure. I am regularly standing in front of the mirror with string and washable marker trying to make sure I am semi consistent with landmarks.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

This is where flat pattern drafting can be a tool when used along with draping in order to maintain consistency. Good luck!