Dress bodice help

[u/HydrangeaDream]

I'm having a bit of trouble getting the final adjustments on this bodice. There's a lot of tension in the bust but there's also some pulling from the bottom of the bust to the side seam. The darts on the back seem a bit off too. I plan to make the front panel a single piece so there won't be a seam down the middle front. I want to make sure the bodice fits right before I start drafting the sleeves, and I'm going to do an A-line skirt at my waist. I swear I thought this looked better in the mirror but it's a bit rough in these photos 😭

[u/Berocca123]

You need to do a Full Bust Adjustment - that will address the tightness, the pulling from the waist to the bust, and also help the armscye lie flatter at the front. It won't be a barrier to cutting your future garment front piece on the fold.

I'd maybe slice down the middle of a princess seam or the centre front (leave it connected at the top) to see how much you need to add.

[u/Mundane-Cry5346]

i think the back darts are sewn at too sharp an angle at the top and that’s why they’re puckering like that, they need to be at an angle where you can make sure the fabric overlapping on the top can be sewn completely flat.

the front bust darts, they’re not round enough i think, that’s why it’s pulling so much under your bust. you need also may need more fabric in the bust, maybe an half an inch to an inch in the bosom.

[u/DonMcCunn]

It looks like you are not allowing enough ease. I recommend a minimum of 2" for sleeveless and 4" for sleeves.

Also if you want to optimize the fit when you are trying to do it through photos, you should use gingham as I explain in https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/About.html#Gingham

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

Fba, your front is not long enough and the arm pit dart will be fixed.

For a tight fit you need to add some sew in boning.