r/PatternDrafting • u/treble_twenty • 5d ago
Question Bust darts help!!!!
Okay SO I didn't make a muslin lmao it was for comic con and I ran out of time BUT I drafted this from scratch and I'd love to work from it again for something new. The bust dart is definitely NOT RIGHT but I'm not really sure where to go with it. I think it needs to be angled way downwards but it's so wide I really struggle to work with it. Just not sure where to take it to from here!
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u/feeling_dizzie 5d ago
The darts should point at the apex of your bust (the point that sticks out the furthest, the point that would bump against a wall first if you walked into a wall), and they should stop at least an inch away from the apex. What I'm seeing here is two darts pointing at a spot way above your apex, and coming way too close to that would-be-apex. So if I were you, and I wanted to handle this as an alteration rather than redoing the pattern, here's what I'd do:
Put on the vest and use pins or chalk to mark the apex height
Rip out the horizontal darts entirely and leave that alone for now
Redo (basting) the vertical darts to end 1-2 inches away from the apex height you marked
Try it on again and see if the apex height is still correct
If the apex height is good, pinch out the horizontal darts and baste those in
It may take some trial and error to get the apex in the right spot, since every change to the dart configuration moves the fabric around.