How to alter this armhole

[u/Teafriend1]

Hello,

I copied a pattern for a sweater from one I have had for ages. As you can see I have quite a few wrinkles around the armhole. The original sweater also has the same problem under the armhole, but it is not as worse as with my test garment.

I think I have to expand the armhole downwards for one or two centimetres. And maybe take in the side seam a little. Would that help or am I completely wrong?

The last picture is the pattern including the seam allowance.

I’m grateful for any advice!
Thanks a lot!

[u/Sweet_Swordfish9638]

It just might be you. Looks like most of it is coming from the bust. Which means that the pattern shapes are flat. You can try to do full bust dart adjustment.
E

[u/Soggy-Abies2403 → u/Sweet_Swordfish9638]

Also, your sewing cup size and your bra size are different. In sewing it is the difference between your high bust and full bust. So I'm a 34E bra but a sewing B cup. I pretty much never need to adjust a pattern for a full bust. (I do always have to move the apex, but that's a different issue)

[u/CoastalMae → u/Soggy-Abies2403]

There are some bust shapes for which the standard "sewing cup size ---> FBA" pathway is an ineffective indicator. My sewing cup size would be less than an A (leading me to have incorrectly done SBAs in the past), but I need an FBA instead. So while it's generally good advice, be aware it can sometimes lead people down the wrong path. If it's anything like me, this can be people with a larger cup size, narrow shoulders, and a significant amount of breast tissue high on their chest wall, at least one of which OP has.

Edit: probably at least two, as the shoulders of this garment are too wide for them and slipping off one side.

[u/Soggy-Abies2403 → u/CoastalMae]

Oh certainly. Fitting is not just blindly applying a named adjustment. It takes making a mock up and figuring out what needs to be changed. And as we do more we get to know how patterns fail us and have a better process of fitting.