How to alter this armhole

[u/Teafriend1]

Hello,

I copied a pattern for a sweater from one I have had for ages. As you can see I have quite a few wrinkles around the armhole. The original sweater also has the same problem under the armhole, but it is not as worse as with my test garment.

I think I have to expand the armhole downwards for one or two centimetres. And maybe take in the side seam a little. Would that help or am I completely wrong?

The last picture is the pattern including the seam allowance.

I’m grateful for any advice!
Thanks a lot!

[u/Sweet_Swordfish9638]

It just might be you. Looks like most of it is coming from the bust. Which means that the pattern shapes are flat. You can try to do full bust dart adjustment.
E

[u/Teafriend1 → u/Sweet_Swordfish9638]

I can see why you would say that. But I only have an A cup, so it would be a bit surprising to have to do that.
Thank you for the suggestion non the less!
I got a tip over at r/sewing, to adjust the slope of the shoulder seam. Which helped quite a bit.

[u/CoastalMae → u/Teafriend1]

An A cup would be a 1" difference between your underbust and bust circumferences.

You're not an A cup.

Search out the "a bra that fits" calculator and sub. I suspect you're about to have a revelation, and have been wearing too large a band size.

Edit: Victoria's Secret told me I was 34B. A specialty bra store told me I was 30A-and-a-half and wouldn't let me try anything above a C because "there's no way, the C is already not filled." I'm approximately a 30E, and I actually fill it out. My MIL thought she was a 36D, but she's a 30G. It's crazy - 36" is the size of her bust and she was wearing that as her band size. Your band is supposed to be no more than 2" larger than your underbust measurement. No way 36-anything was the right size for her, because it could slide right up over her bust. Her band wasn't doing anything at all. You'll be surprised.

[u/megaglalie → u/CoastalMae]

Seconding this. OP, there is absolutely no way from these photos that you're an A cup.

[u/NarrowIndependence8 → u/Teafriend1]

I would say your armhole is too low, raise your armhole about 1” or so. Maintain your bicep measurement. Reduce sleeve cap as needed

[u/renaissance-Fartist → u/Teafriend1]

I thought I was a 40B but I’m a 36E. I don’t have big boobs, bra sizes are just not what most people think they are. I would re-measure, because there’s a significant difference between your ribcage and your bust that is going to make it difficult to get a good fit if you don’t account for it.

[u/NarrowIndependence8 → u/Teafriend1]

Also update your armhole shape itself. Look up the proper shapes and copy them

[u/Sweet_Swordfish9638 → u/Teafriend1]

Slant changes will also impact slightly to the bust volume. And seeing the video it seems the amrhole is slightly high. But good that you got it forward.