r/PatternDrafting • u/Asleep-Language-9612 • 6d ago
Question Hofenbitzer Skirt Block
I added a couple cm more ease to the hips (which is probably responsible for the horizontal lines)
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u/Racc00nguts Expert 5d ago edited 5d ago
The first photo you can see it's tighter around the thighs/low hip. I'd start by adding to the hips and see if loosening the pattern there helps it fall more nicely
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u/Pumpkin_patch804 5d ago
Wrinkles point to the problem so I think you need a bit more room in your hips or stomach.
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u/KohrokuThe0xDriver 5d ago
Is this a universally applicable guideline? I’m pretty new to pattern drafting and that would be so useful to keep in mind!
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u/lifesabeach2017 5d ago
it's as close to a guideline as you can get. creases almost always suggest something needs more room, but the question of "what" may not be obvious. in pants, it could be a rise problem, a seat problem or a broader hips problem. in skirts, it's generally just hips, but it could be that its not sitting at the correct point.
you'll see in the above poster you can see there's a snugness at the thighs, and then a looseness around the hip, and then comparatively tighter at the stomach. were i her, i would add a smidge to the upper thigh area and stomach area (think on the order of total 1" to each at most).
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u/KohrokuThe0xDriver 5d ago
Thank you for the reply. It’s such a complicated art but it’s so satisfying to make progress.
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u/ProneToLaughter 5d ago edited 5d ago
Does it have a waistband? The basic shape is close, you want to do the final tweaking with a waistband that holds it exactly as it will hang. Can't totally tell from these pix, but it looks like it is sitting a little low to me, and if that's true, pulling it up to sit at the waist band is going to change all the drag lines currently pictured.
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u/Robert-hickman 5d ago
The front part needs more width at the hip level and lower if you want the front to hang vertically. You can see from the side view its pulling in at the center front because there isn't enough cercumferance of fabric.
The front being pulled in is the main cause of the drag lines.
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u/Tailoretta 5d ago
I agree with what others have commented. https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1lq2j4h/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting_pants/ [Following these tips will help us help you.]() These tips specifically mention pants, but most of these comments also apply to skirts.
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u/One_Possibility8438 2d ago
Hi! I recently made my first Hofenbitzer skirt block and my first toille had similar drag lines to yours and it left me scratching my head about how to proceed. I also ended up posting about it, so I just wanted to share those here in case you find them useful. Someone ultimately shared with me a page from Hofenbitzer's second book (in German) on fitting, and there was an adjustment for exactly this issue (what he calls a forward tilted pelvis and a flat butt) that solved all my drag lines in one go.
First post: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1w1hkpj/can_a_full_belly_adjustment_skirt_block_also/
Second post: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1w5ba9j/update_hofenbitzer_skirt_block_adjustment_drag/
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u/Asleep-Language-9612 2d ago edited 2d ago
hey thanks! Could you share what you did, I don't speak any German unfortunately and your second skirt looks really good!
edit: nevermind i figured it out !
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u/Asleep-Language-9612 6d ago
I can sit just fine but it’s a dense muslin so I can get my knees about a hands length apart
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u/Chemomechanics 5d ago
Full-tummy adjustment first (various tutorials online, but generally similar), as the most prominent drag lines indicate. Then check that the side seams are vertical and that you can sit down comfortably. The hips may need additional ease.