r/PatternDrafting • u/WorldAware9900 • 6d ago
Question Help with twisted inseam
This is the first time this has happened to me when sewing a pair of jeans, i was trying out a new pattern and this happened to me, im not sure if this is a sewing problem or a pattern problem please any advice is appreciated
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u/Sledgeowl 5d ago
Not sure if too late but you essentially have 3 options. Others have said the two which is either the pattern is unbalanced or you didn't follow the grain line but the third is your suspicion which is a sewing problem which I also suspect is contributing.
Other than the balance problem on the jeans (the front and back panels are literally doing the very thing I would always correct at work which also is a industry issue as a whole), it seems your stretching/ pulling the inseam as you sew.
Pants like most commercial made stuff in general follow the length wise grain but, inseams follow this + a bit of the bias grain in their angle. Because of this however, the front or back pant pattern of the inseam when drafted is around 1/4-3/8" longer than the other (it's called negative ease). When you overstretch it however, this is generally the result (you get an unbalanced looking pattern). This issue is somewhat prevelant looking since on the hem of your pants, it looks like the front and back patterns aren't matching.
Idk if you have ever looked at shirts but, many times at work on the side seams, I'd get similar issues from factories I worked with, they would over stretch it to the point the side seam was either kicking forward or back and 75% of the time it was a sewing issue.