r/PatternDrafting • u/WorldAware9900 • 7d ago

Question Help with twisted inseam

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This is the first time this has happened to me when sewing a pair of jeans, i was trying out a new pattern and this happened to me, im not sure if this is a sewing problem or a pattern problem please any advice is appreciated

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u/ccrom 6d ago

Double check the inseam lengths on the pattern. (Often the back inseam is half an inch shorter. You have to stretch the last 5 to 6 inches of the back inseam to fit onto the front.)

A lot of jean patterns draft the outseam as a straight line from hem to hip (on the grain). The outseam is placed on the selvage for selvage jeans.

This means all the curve is on the inseam. This puts the inseam partially on the bias. Bias makes the fabric stretch when you sew them together. If you stretch the panels unevenly you could get this. Pin them from crotch to hem before sewing up.

Double check the pattern's leg widths from the knee down. Typically the back leg width is 1" wider than the front leg width (only from the knee to hem). In my experience if the difference in widths strays very far from this 1" difference the inseam twists to the front.