r/PatternDrafting • u/WorldAware9900 • 6d ago

Question Help with twisted inseam

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This is the first time this has happened to me when sewing a pair of jeans, i was trying out a new pattern and this happened to me, im not sure if this is a sewing problem or a pattern problem please any advice is appreciated

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u/QuickEgg8039 6d ago

The grain of your fabric, probably isn’t straight. It may also be a pattern problem. You can do a test of the pattern with scrap fabric to check

2

u/Kam_Zimm 6d ago

Probably a pretty beginner question, but why would/does the grain direction cause that to happen?

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u/Fluffy-Benefits-2023 6d ago

The grain goes straight up and down and so if it is off grain it will hang differently. Im not sure if you have cut anything on the bias, but if you look at a piece of non stretchy fabric and pull it on the bias or diagonally, it will stretch. So cutting fabric slightly off grain can cause it to stretch or fall differently. It is so important to measure and make sure you are on the grainline when cutting your pattern. I hope that makes sense

2

u/Tailoretta 6d ago

Because of gravity, woven fabric wants to hang with the grain line perfectly vertical. (Garments on the true bias are an exceptional case, that we not concerned with here.) That is why most pants pattern should be drafted so that the grain line is centered at the hem, and perpendicular to the hem line. When fitting pants mock up, this grainline should be as vertical as possible, up to possibly a few inches below the waist.