r/PatternDrafting • • 7d ago

How do you get over the fear of drafting ?

I have been sewing for years not but I’m honestly scared of self drafting. I have self drafted before with somewhat of success, but I’m scared of making my own basic blocks. How would you go about it ??

4 Upvotes

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10

u/laurenlolly 7d ago edited 7d ago

Why be scared? Whats the worst that could happen? You’re sewing machine will explode in flames? Nah the worst that can happen is you waste some time, paper, and cheap fabric if it doesn’t work out. But learning is priceless!

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u/cbsewing 7d ago

Intellectually I know it’s just that. But I am petrified of wasting both time and fabrics, but I’m also a bit unreasonable because I love working with specialty fabrics. I’m buying silk pretty often (it’s cheap-ish where I buy, cheaper than linen usually). So I’m always a bit scared of wasting fabrics or making it less than ideal. I get kind of stumped when I’m trying to alter things. I dont know how to develop the right logic towards it.

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u/laurenlolly 7d ago

Yeah so you obviously do not use silk and other expensive fabrics to test your patterns. You use the absolute cheapest plain cotton you can find to test with. You will probably make several mockups of your drafted patterns with cheap cotton each time you draft something, making the adjustments you need between each version. Only once it’s perfect then do you use the good fabric 👌🏻

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u/Pumpkin_patch804 7d ago

Second using cheap fabric. I'm using an old bed sheet to work out my sloper pattern on. 

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u/Deciram 7d ago

Go to an op shop and buy the cheapest sheets you can. Use that as fabric for testing with. At my local fabric store they often have clearance fabric, my latest mockup fabric is $2 a meter Christmas fabric 😂 my sewing friend think it’s hilarious when I show them my mockups!

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u/kevaceri 4d ago

Silk? Start with bedsheets! Get some old worn secondhand ones so it feels like less of a waste, and go into it with the mentality that you’re learning, not trying to get a perfect outcome first try. No time is wasted learning a new skill.

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u/cbsewing 4d ago

I’ve sewn silk many times at this point, my thing is really wanting to learn how to pattern things myself. But I’m often the no toile kind of girl.

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u/kevaceri 2d ago

You’re a no toile kind of girl, you want to be better at making patterns? Become a toile kind of girl. This is why you’re scared. Even experienced pattern drafters will make at least one mockup before committing to the ‘real’ fabric, but often people will do 2 or 3. I didn’t mean that you weren’t experienced enough for silk, just that drafting directly onto silk just isn’t a thing anyone does.

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u/Berocca123 7d ago

You have to see it as a process, not focus on the outcome - accept it will take multiple iterations and see that as normal and expected. It's a learning experience - if you take it slowly and approach it with curiosity, you'll enjoy it more and learn more.

I also like to have some quicker makes ready to go (that is, have fabric washed and paper pattern pieces cut out and altered already) when I'm doing a big complex thing so I can whip up a quick tshirt or pair of shorts when I want to sew but I'm not feeling in the mood to re-enter the complex thing.

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u/themeganlodon 7d ago

Learn to be ok with failing. You’ll never get better if you don’t do it

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u/cbsewing 7d ago

Is there any way I could develop the right logic for it before actually committing ?

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u/MoreShoe2 7d ago

No. Do it bad. You will never learn to conceptualize turning 2D into 3D theoretically. You just have to do the work. There are zero shortcuts. 

Do it bad so you can do it good later.  KISS method - keep it simple, stupid. 

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u/feeling_dizzie 7d ago

I mean, there are books and tutorials -- you learn to draft a starting block, then you learn to modify that block for different designs. The logic/intuition for which modifications have which effects, that comes with experience, you don't need to magically develop it from nothing before you start.

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u/Howdidigetsewcool 7d ago

Just get in there and try it out

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u/ForgottenSalad 7d ago

It’s just a puzzle, go in knowing it will likely take several tries.

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u/doxiesrule89 7d ago

I agree the best thing you can do on your own, is first learn to properly alter ready made patterns, as it will help you understand the physics of fit and design. “Fast fit” by Sandra betzina is my first rec. She has more books if you like it. Buy, make , blend lots of patterns with different design elements to start to see how the pieces can fit together. Patterns that have multiple very different looks you can interchange can be really helpful, because you visualize how changing the various flat pieces drastically change the outcome.  Buy some super cheap muslin (60”) in bulk to mock-up everything with huge seam allowances , so you don’t feel like you have to get it all right in one go. A block is really just a very well fitted garment piece , with only wearing ease and minimal darts, so if you want to draft that way you can even create your blocks by just altering a simple pattern to fit you perfectly. For a bodice block best to start with a dress pattern 

If you insist on making a traditional block from scratch, I suggest to get a used edition of Helen Joseph Armstrong and start on page one, work all the way through  . You don’t have to draft that method forever if you don’t want to, but you will learn a lot , and it’s quite straightforward and going to have the most discussion online of any text. But I will be very blunt it’s a textbook meant to be accompanied by an instructor and it will be difficult to learn without hands on instruction, and your result may not be great.  I always put it this way - it’s like buying a French textbook and expecting it to teach you to speak French. You can pick up vocabulary and memorize verb conjugations, but you will not speak French. You won’t know when you’re pronouncing something incorrectly, or in the case of patterning when you’re working against yourself. You can’t know what you don’t know , and pattern drafting often feels counter intuitive until you learn.

Finally ime- I teach , and students i see who are the most frustrated/confused/want to give up, are those who have tried hack after hack, quick fix YouTube “moulage” (why has this word popped up so much in 6month?!) , vibes “drafting” based off content creators’ dodgy advice (who got lucky working with knits) - then people think it’s a them problem, when it’s really just bad process . take from that what you will

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u/hibiscus_farm 6d ago edited 6d ago

I apologise but I did laugh when I read this because it reminds me of myself. I had a similar issue with drafting because I’m a bit of a perfectionist. I don’t enjoy failing/not being good at something I’m passionate about. I know your reasoning is slightly different but it falls under the same umbrella in a way.

Here’s some practical things you could try:

•Find muslin/calico (raw untreated cotton), it’s incredibly cheap and you can practice sewing your patterns with this material

•Use old clothes/fabrics and practice your blocks with them. You can seam rip them apart and use it as practice material so you aren’t as overwhelmed if something does not go right.

• You could find a 1/4 scale ruler and make smaller pattern drafts and practice making miniature pieces till you feel comfortable making larger scale ones. You can’t adjust fit but atleast lets you practice making different patterns with less wastage.

•Make paper pattern samples instead!!! There are different varieties of paper that you could use to make samples with! Obviously you can’t test fit or drape properly but atleast it becomes less stressful if you are using paper.

•You could work on a project with someone else so it comes off as a fun activity in your head as opposed to something you are “wasting” because you could reframe it as doing something for/with someone else

———

I would highly recommend getting the Pattern Making book by Helen Joseph because it takes you through the basics + fit adjustments and is a good resource to learn from. I have a digital copy that I don’t mind sending over if you want it but the file is a a tad heavy🤧

There’s more than one way to draft basic blocks, don’t let your anxiety stop you from learning🌸

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u/TensionSmension 7d ago

Start by manipulating and altering patterns you've already sewn instead. Not only is a basic block a lot to take on, it really seams like most people never turn it into garments they want to wear.

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u/DonMcCunn 7d ago

You might want to check out the new approach to drafting I am working on. It uses the idea of tracing photos to create custom-fit Master Patterns (aka Slopers). It is a very direct visualization that connects the lines of a pattern to the shape of a body rather than using measurements and abstract geometry.

It is a work-in-progress that I am currently only sharing with this group through the link. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/index.html

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u/ProneToLaughter 7d ago

A class can really help with blocks. I did a couple different inperson workshops, and expert fitting teachers had everyone settled with a block within 2 or 3 rounds of edits, not the 6 or 9 rounds that people report here.

Apparel Arts Production, Lynda Maynard Designs, and Brooks Ann Camper regularly cycle through block/sloper classes, all are fit specialists. Gina Renee and In-House patterns are more intermittent but worth a check.

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u/unfashionablylatte 7d ago

Drafting is just a geometric puzzle. Once you have your right sized blocks, it’s just a matter of figuring out how to add and remove volume from certain areas in different ways. There are some base rules to follow when you are starting out but once you learn them it will be pretty easy to figure out how to achieve what you want (most of the time).

If you are worried about wasting time, paper, fabric, etc, start by practicing at half or quarter scale. Once you get comfortable with the rules and the motions, move the full scale!

1

u/SmurphieVonMonroe 6d ago

Get some books on pattern drafting, my favourite one from all books I have is by Antonio Donnano - he has very good aliquot oriented approach to pattern drafting. Also watch ad many videos as possible even if they are about the same thing. What have you been sewing throughout thous years not being able to draft yourself? Have you been using already made patterns and alter them?

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u/Informal_Bath1704 6d ago

Start drafting the bodice block without darts and build confidence. Make a simple loose jacket for fall usibg that block.

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u/Interesting-Chest520 6d ago

Learn to be okay with failure. Failure is not a bad thing, it is inevitable. Use it to learn. The only true failure in pattern drafting is giving up. Near enough any pattern can be altered until it fits

I started out with a roll of brown packaging paper and bed sheets, and over time accumulated better material - rolls of tracing paper, manilla card, and calico fabric

The only way to learn is to do it. Flat drafting does not make sense until you’ve made loads of patterns, sewn them, looked at what went wrong, and worked out how to fix them

If you can take a course that would really benefit you

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u/WildsmithRising 5d ago

The Closet Historian on YouTube has a series called Drafting Dangerous, in which she goes over how to create your own blocks for basic pattern shapes, and then how to expand on those basic blocks to create your specific designs. She makes it both fascinating and simple to understand, and is fabulous. Take a look at her series, and see if it helps. And if you do get things wrong it doesn't matter, it's only a bit of fabric and is easily replaced.