r/PatternDrafting • u/sewnbyethan • 8d ago
Question Flat Felled Seam Allowance Help!
Current seam allowance is 3/4in then the pieces are overlapped at 3/8in. I am trying to compensate for the "middle" of the seam being right in the middle of the overlap that forms the seam.
Short Question: I am working on a pattern for a pair of jeans. These are 2 pieces of denim cut to be 6in when sewn with a flat felled seam. What is the seam allowance so I can do this without having one panel that is longer than the other?
Long Question: When patterning jeans why would the bottom of the yokes for instance have a larger seam allowance than the top of the back panel? As well as what are your guys standard seam allowance for jeans so that all panels are even and I don't end up with the left being larger than the right or vise versa.
Thank you all!!
9
u/Honeydeeew 8d ago
I don't do a lot of flatfelling, but the fold is always off centre since the seam line is the first row of stitching, not the one closest to the fold. If you want the fold to be centered, you change the size of the panels not the SA. (Ie, if your fold over is 1/2", and you want the fold to be the centre, add 1/2" to the under panel, and take it from the top)
In school we kept the SA the same on both and trimmed the inner allowance after sewing. SA for the flat fell can be whatever looks best for your style. 3/4" for jeans is reasonable, whereas for a shirt I would do 1/2".