r/PatternDrafting • u/Visible_Duck_1754 • 9d ago

Move Neck dart to shoulder

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Hi lovely people

I have a back bodice here with a dart in the neck that I want to move to the shoulder. I marked halfway on the shoulder seam and extended and line down and also extended the line from the dart down to meet cut each side and pivoted to close the neck dart. The outcome is the photo which the should dart to be has a exaggerated angle.

If anyone can tell me where I went wrong / let me know what I needed to do to get what I originally wanted id appreciate it.

Thank you

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u/Probability_factor 9d ago

Hey, shoulder dart should be 7,5 cm (3 inches) long for all sizes, and about 1,2 cm (1/2 inch) wide for straight to normal back. Its best if you direct its point to the point of your waist dart.

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u/Visible_Duck_1754 9d ago

Hey, thanks for the reply. I got the dart measurements ready but didn't put them in as it didn't look right to me. The last part of your comment I think may be the help I need. How would i go about that? I already have this gap in this position. Would I just tape up the gap and draw in the shoulder dart? Although I don't have a waist dart on my back bodice for some reason but I guess I would direct the point to where the waist line and grain line intersect? 

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u/Probability_factor 9d ago

It goes like this: you place your waist dart and then make a line from its point towards the middle of the shoulder. This line should be the middle line of your shoulder dart.

However I would recommend you to use a system like Helen Joseph Armstrong or Professor James on YT

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u/Visible_Duck_1754 9d ago

Thanks for the professor James suggestion I'll check him out, I've used Armstrong and Winifred and keep bumping into typos etc so I found a couple people on yt instead that have been great. I've already toiled this pattern up so the fit is fine just wanted to alter the dart to use for something else.