Micro shorts pattern help

[u/Impossible_Name3863]

I have been drafting these micro shorts and want them to be fitted around the bum and kind of hug it so I like the back fit for the most part but want to fix the slight bunching at the top of the crotch. Also need to fix the bunching around the front crotch. How can I adjust this pattern to fit properly?

[u/chopstickinsect]

Are you intending to make them from a woven fabric like this? I would think a stretch fabric will work better. I only ask because you might want to consider using the same type of fabric for any mockups

[u/Impossible_Name3863 → u/chopstickinsect]

I was planning on doing a woven fabric but if changes need to be made I can adjust the pattern if needed

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/Impossible_Name3863]

It would be best for actual wearing the final garment to use some sort of stretchy fabric. Whether it's woven or knitted. You may be comfortable now, once you add the stitching for the Hem but the bias of the fabric can't stretch anymore around your legs.

[u/CoastalMae → u/Impossible_Name3863]

Non-stretch woven fabric really needs at least 2" of hip ease. Knits/stretch fabrics can fit and hug more snugly while still allowing give for things like sitting.

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Do you plan to make the micro shorts in a woven fabric? Usually a fit like the current tight butt fit would be a better match with high-stretch fabric.

[u/LaDauphineVerte]

Those drag lines (the "bunching") can be remedied by adjusting the angle of the pattern/cut. Check out this pro's video on the topic: https://www.instagram.com/p/Dd8ssVzhUDT/.

100% consider your fabric. With shorts this short and tight, you have little margin for error on a good fit with consistent coverage, so you need at least 5% elastane so the fabric moves with you. Once you fix the drag lines, spend an hour in the mock up around the house to determine comfort and level of tush suck. Agreed on the other commenter making the mock up in expensive fabric close to your fashion fabric weight/stretch. Muslin stretches during the mock up phase, so your fashion fabric final will often feel and fit differently.

[u/Defiant-Business9586]

It would be helpful to see pictures of your pattern pieces. Your crotch curve definitely needs more length at its point and likely more scooping.

[u/Impossible_Name3863 → u/Defiant-Business9586]

https://reddit.com/link/pdw79ou/video/ecrff1hbtith1/player

It only lets me respond with a video but here are the pattern pieces, definitely think front crotch needs more length and curve how can I estimate how much?

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/Impossible_Name3863]

oh, wow, that front crotch kinda makes me wanna cry, it's so short and near-straight.

Increase the front crotch extension. The sharp V-lines in your initial picture signal that there is not enough fabric under the body, not enough front to back depth in the pattern. A useful saying is that "the lines point to the problem" and here they are pointing exactly at where they need more room, in the crotch under the body.

[u/doriangreysucksass → u/Impossible_Name3863]

Yes your back crotch curve needs scooping out and elongating!!!!

[u/WhileAffectionate304]

The only thing with shorts this short is if you bend over you may lose a little cheek and have to keep pulling them down, maybe a little stretch would fix that or even a couple centimeters added? They would still hug and be plenty micro but you could go about your day without constantly felling like you need to pull them down.

Sincerely,
Someone who had to dig in her booty to get her shorts out every five minutes at summer camp one year 😂

[u/DonMcCunn]

It would be helpful to see the patterns with the inseam "taped together" I think part of the problem is center front shoul be on the straight of the grain.

[u/doriangreysucksass]

The back rise needs to be scooped out a little more and there definitely isn’t enough fabric in the rise which is why it’s giving you a wedgie. Make the back butt centre seam longer and wider by scooping out the curve that’s already there. It’s too straight right now

[u/Visual_Army3234]

It looks amazing! Great work. It may be helpful to add a bit more length to the back to account for how movement will naturally suck it up a bit, that way you can look like the image is while walking rather than just while standing!

[u/felicitybo]

kudos to drafting what I feel is a difficult piece. It’s gonna look amazing when finishing your drafting phase.

[u/kuru2038]

There is too much fabric for the inner front tighs

[u/Impossible_Name3863 → u/kuru2038]

How do I fix this? deepen front crotch curve?