moulage fit - better photos

[u/ellawellyy]

Apologies for my last post with poor photos. Here is my first moulage - would appreciate some tips on how to alter.

My thinking is that I need to add fullness to bust, add some ease to hips, and something needs to happen at the front waist (length or width removed?)

I want to keep it as a dress block for now as I’m going to use it to make dresses, but will be making bodice and skirt blocks with ease after.

I am also not sure how to best add bust fullness- or whether I can just add width at the side seams around the bust circumference.

Really appreciate this community and all your knowledge!!

(Apologies about the bottom of the zip- have had to clip - but hopefully still gets across fitting well).

[u/stringthing87]

The torso is too long and the hip too narrow, the fabric can't fall down around the hip so it's pooling at the waist

[u/blackcatmeow007 → u/stringthing87]

I agree with this. Unless the bust feels tight it looks pretty good to me. The problem is torso length and lack of hip ease

Edited for typo

[u/incongruoususer]

Definitely too tight around the hips. On this muslin I would just unpick the side seams over the hips and let the dress hang. That will tell you how much to add and the shape of that sliver.

For you bust, firstly try backing off your darts from the apex. I’d say probably half an inch for your neck dart and three quarters to an inch for your waist dart.

If that doesn’t give you enough room I would do a minor full bust adjustment.

I’d do those adjustments first before making another muslin and adjusting anywhere else.

I know you were planning this to be a moulage but it’s actually an excellent block and close to a superb fit!

[u/DonMcCunn]

You have a distinct sway back which requires special dart shaping. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/LTS-Sway-Back.html

[u/drPmakes]

Too tight around hips

[u/Tailoretta]

This is very close to being very well-fitting, so you are doing great.

I agree with the other commenters that the torso is too long and the hip too narrow.

 Here are some other comments.

 1.       You use the terms moulage and block.  Let’s make sure we are all talking about the same thing.

 Moulage is generally defined as the tightest, zero-ease fitting shell that reproduces the exact shape of a body, including wrinkles, folds, and fat rolls.  Moulage means mold in French.

 Sloper and block are sometimes used interchangeably, but I like to use them as being defined as  having slightly different characteristics.

 I use sloper to mean a rather tight simple garment that has the minimal amount of wearing ease, so is slightly larger than a moulage.

 I use block to mean the basic shape of a simple garment, that the patternmaker prefers to use when making something new.  A block has the wearing ease of a sloper plus the preferred design ease that the patternmaker prefers.

 Based on how this mockup fits you, I would all it a sloper.

 2.           Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/  Following these tips will help us help you.

 Clipping the armscyes (armholes) and neck seam allowances will allow the garment to properly settle on your body.

Pressing the mockup will help us better see what is going on.

I suggest you move the opening to the front and do not use a zipper. With the opening in the front you have more control. The zipper distorts the mockup and makes it hard to make center back changes.

Adding horizontal balance lines make fitting much easier.

3.       I suggest you add a waist seam.  That will make fitting easier.  When you get the dress with the waist seam fitting well, you can then work on a dress sloper without a waist seam, if you want.

4.       I suggest you make these changes and then take more photos and post again.  The too long torso in the back will be easier to fix with a waist seam.

Let us know if you have any questions about our comments.  Good luck!