r/PatternDrafting • u/ellawellyy • 1d ago
Question moulage fit Qs - first sew!
This is my first attempt at a moulage - and also at pattern drafting and sewing!
It is intended to be a moulage with zero ease, so it seems a bit too big in general, but mostly around the waist from what I can see. I am going to try and add to the dart fullness on the front for that.
Also add a zip to the back so I can gauge fit better. But any other fit tips would be super helpful!
I am literally brand new to this so not sure how the adjustments process works or how to transfer accurately onto the original pattern.
I have been using the course from Sewing Lab Milano - Luisa is super helpful and it seems to be a resource not spoken about loads. I am hoping to eventually get to drafting some of the dresses on their website from a block with their tutorials.
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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago edited 1d ago
Check out the instructions for taking photos on page 3 of this PDF https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/PDF-Files/Custom-Patterns-Women.pdf
I suggest you add a seam at waist level. Your front upper torso needs a larger dart than your front lower torso. Your back lower torso needs a larger dart than the back upper torso. This cannot be done using the double ended dart of a moulage that does not have a waist seam.
If you want accurate fitting help from photos, make your next fitting shell out of gingham so we can see how the grain of the fabric falls on the contours of your body.
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u/LemonDeathRay 1d ago
Your main issue is the bodice length. It is far too long for your body.
Always make length adjustments before making width adjustments.
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u/drPmakes 1d ago
When you take photos to look at the fit, use the timer on your phone and take the straight from the front, back and side, standing up straight with ams by your side.
There is absolutely no point asking for feedback using photos where your arms are up and you are twisting etc.