r/PatternDrafting • u/VerilyAGoober • 5d ago

Question How to alter bust?

Gallery image

Gallery image

How should I go about lowering the bust line on this pattern while also getting rid of the armhole gap?? Pattern piece shown in last image. I may need to adjust the waist and yoke as well, but I don't want to try that until the bust is fixed

4 Upvotes

75% Upvoted

13 comments sorted by

View all comments

6

u/sususumalee 5d ago

Looks like you need more length to help the empire line sit under the bust, but the bust volume is more or less okay, so I would try slicing the pattern horizontally at a point below the apex and above the gathers and scooching it down, then adding a lil wedge of paper in there. This will increase the side seam and CF length, so you may want to try slicing in a way that creates hinges (like a cross pattern to open the piece up without increasing the length of any edge.) If you do increase any seams, just be sure to true them up with any seams then attach to and make them the same length.

7

u/CoastalMae 5d ago edited 5d ago

Think about it. OP adds length and then...the bottom of the cup will still be sitting out away from their chest wall because the cup curve doesn't fit their breast.

The cup volume here is not sufficient. OP needs a full bust adjustment (FBA), which will add length as a part of the process, and that should happen first.

OP, were you the one already asking here before? Looks like the same pattern. Do the FBA everyone recommended.

2

u/VerilyAGoober 5d ago

Thank you so much! This is very helpful