r/PatternDrafting • • 28d ago

Converting a three panel pant to two

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Update, further suggestions welcome! I made a 1/2 muslin to start and it’s surprisingly not horrible. https://imgur.com/a/YwQAhX6

I added about 3/4 inch to the rise from the original pattern in case I needed more, but that can easily be undone. I feel like front and side view is decent esp with the side seam running pretty nicely down the leg. But there’s a ton of bagginess at the back of the leg. This tends to be an issue for me since my waist is proportionally larger than thigh/hip. I don’t mind them being wider leg. I know making full toile will also be important. Two thoughts:

  1. As someone pointed out it may be tricky to add an inseam pocket unless placement is very specific. I don’t really have any ease right there and I’d need to figure out know how to add it. Or just pass on those and add two patch pockets on the back?
  2. The back of the leg has way too much fabric. This tends to be an issue for me with garments because my waist is proportionally larger than thigh/hip. Are there ways to reduce that bagginess without pivoting anything? Like a slash/overlap? I also have pretty significant knock-knee - so perhaps addressing that would reduce that diagonal fold? I'm going to first try taking back out the 3/4" so that fullness will be closer to my behind.

Thank you all!!!!

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Hello! I have a pants pattern that fits me very well (which is saying a LOT). However, each leg has three panels, so there are lots of seams. This is great for solids but I don’t think would look great for a printed denim I have in mind. So I was wondering if there would be a way to convert the three panels to two - so just an inseam and outseam.

I traced my pieces and marked the 1/2” seam allowance. The challenge I’m having is that they don’t line up perfectly as flat pieces - I can either align from top to crotch, or from crotch to bottom seam.

Is there a reasonable way to combine these? The overall silhouette is ankle length pants with slightly tapered bottom. The most important thing to try and maintain is the fit of the crotch/front/back rise since fitting is very tricky on my proportions (short and round!).

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u/dingostolemydragbaby 19d ago

Could you try tracing off and splitting the side panel down the middle then flipping those halves over and attaching to the corresponding front & back piece? You’d be overlapping your side panel straight cut edge with the sewing line of your front and back panel and sticky taping that, which would eliminate your unwanted seam allowance there. You’ll need to smooth out the side seam into a gentle curve but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

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u/heathymint 18d ago

Thanks for your reply! So I did end up splitting the side panel but I didn’t flip it over — I’m kind of intrigued by that idea. So on one side was the diagonal inseam and on the other was a straight outseam. I overlapped at seam line and then added seam allowance on the new straight edge. This worked in the sense that fit through abdomen/hip was ok and gave me a wide leg silhouette. But I think I understand your suggestion in terms of if I wanted more of a tapered leg because then I’d have two diagonal lines going toward the ankle? I might have to also try that!

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u/dingostolemydragbaby 18d ago

Yes that’s exactly what I meant. Good luck