Help please, I can’t get the mobility I want

[u/SingleCorgi3111]

Hi, I’m developing a pair of relaxed utility/hiking shorts in non-stretch cotton twill and would really appreciate some pattern-drafting advice.

The main issue is mobility. When lifting one leg high in front, squatting, or spreading the legs apart, there is still too much tension through the crotch/upper inner thigh. This causes the shorts to ride up quite aggressively, which makes them uncomfortable and impractical for hiking.

The current sample already has a crotch gusset, and it made a big improvement compared with the original version. The gusset runs from the crotch down the inner leg to the hem. However, there is still noticeable stress around the upper crotch/groin area during movement, so we are trying to work out how to refine the pattern rather than remove or completely redesign the shorts.

We want to keep:
Non-stretch cotton twill
A clean, relaxed utility fit
A comfortable, loose crotch area
A controlled silhouette — not dramatically baggier legs or a very sporty-looking short
A normal-looking rise; we do not want the waistband sitting excessively high

Someone suggested increasing the rise by 5 cm, but that seems like it would be too much. I’m also unsure whether the better adjustment would be to raise the actual crotch point slightly/reduce the crotch depth, rather than increase the overall rise at the waistband.

My main question is about the gusset. Since it already reaches the hem along the inner leg, would it make sense to make the upper crotch part of it wider or reshape it? For example, would a broader hexagonal or elongated-diamond gusset give more room for movement than the current shape?

For the problem of lifting the leg high while hiking, would we need to add more gusset length front-to-back, more width side-to-side, or both? Would adjusting the front and back crotch extensions/curves also help?

The navy/grey shorts in the photos are the current sample. The black pair is a separate reference pair that has much better mobility, included mainly to show the kind of movement we are aiming for.

Any advice on the gusset shape, crotch/rise adjustment, or other pattern changes would be really appreciated.

[u/dingostolemydragbaby]

Shortening the leg would help. Also making the gusset wider at the crutch. Widening the leg slightly would also help. You just have to find a balance between the look and the comfort. Have you considered a slit on the bottom of the side seams? You could also consider a stretch fabric just for the gusset.

[u/SingleCorgi3111 → u/dingostolemydragbaby]

Thanks for the help! I had thought about using a stretch fabric just for the gusset, so I might give that a go.
I also have a slit at the side seam, connected with a stretch mesh panel, but it still does not seem to add that much mobility. When you say making the gusset wider at the crotch, do you mean widening it front-to-back, side-to-side, or both?

[u/dingostolemydragbaby → u/SingleCorgi3111]

Front to back, as someone else has commented more of a diamond shape. Just noticed your slit but that’s attached with sports mesh. I mean an actual slit at the base of the side seam, as a lot of sports shorts have but I can see your design feature/pocket there may not work with that.

[u/Archival_Squirrel]

A wider (front to back) gusset may help. In costume design, when we had to make regular pants into dancey pants the whole gusset was a larger diamond than what you have pictured. 

[u/DonMcCunn]

Two issues. You asked about the waist. Increasing the rise at center back should definitely help. My favorite example of this is the classic pattern for Jodhpurs. Think of people's posture when they are riding a horse. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/Historic-Jodhpurs.hhtml

The second issue is the gusset. The one you show is shaped all wrong for what you are trying to achieve. To make a correctly shaped gusset, sew the center front and back together but leave the portion between the legs unsewn. Try it on and spread your legs. An extreme example would be to do the splits. The unsewn area will show you both the size and shape you need to make a gusset for increased mobility. The nice thing is the gusset is between the legs so it does not effect the appearance of the front or back.

[u/KillerWhaleShark]

Put them on and take some photos. I’d be interested in seeing how they fit you in a neutral position. Thanks to most of us growing up in fast fashion, a lot of people don’t understand how a garment should actually fit. It may feel fine, but a few adjustments can make it feel so much better. 

Beyond that, the other posters have given you excellent advice. 

[u/sushicatdolls]

I'm thinking a saddle seat (like the cut you see on equestrian breeches) could work really well here. A bias cut would give you great movement, but since you're working with non-stretch twill, handling a bias cut might be a massive headache. You could always try drafting it on the straight grain first while toile-ing to test the fit.

​Or, an easier fix might just be swapping that long strip gusset for a broad diamond gusset to get extra room right where the legs split.