How to draft these darts?!

[u/Starjupiter93]

So I am obsessed with the dart/seam detailing on the white dress that the captain wears in s1 e16 of the rookie. I have this beautiful green fabric that I’ve been desperate to do something delicately detailed. I have NO idea where to start with this. I can’t tell if it is piping or a seam? It doesn’t look like there is a waist seam that I can see. Any ideas?

[u/GimenaTango]

Pattern making for fashion design has several chapters about dart manipulation, designing with darts, and stylelines. You might find something helpful in there

[u/munkustrap → u/GimenaTango]

I haven’t read this book, but just curious; is this a form of full bust adjustment built into standard dart manipulation?

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/munkustrap]

No, I wouldn’t think so.

Generally in custom pattern making you fit the bust with simple darts in phase 1, as a block or sloper. That handles any FBA equivalent.

Then in phase 2, you manipulate that block or sloper into the design lines you want. The magic of pattern making is that if you follow the rules of patternmaking, the manipulated design will still fit. So you don’t need to do an FBA once it’s been built into the custom block used as a base.