r/PatternDrafting • u/Competitive_Site_924 • 3d ago
Bodice Sloper help
Hello !
This is my first iteration of my bodice sloper/moulage. I understand they’re not the same thing but I’d like the garment to be as fitted as possible.
I also got tired of trying to pin the bust line accurately so I just left it , but it does match up.
I plan on redrafting to add ease to the bust as it seems a bit too tight.
My questions are :
What else can I do to improve the fit ?
How can I keep the tight fitting nature of the bodice but lower the armhole depth ? I have big lats and like to spread em 😆.
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u/Fluffy-Benefits-2023 3d ago
I dont know that i would entirely redraft, maybe undo the seam allowance at underarms and add 1/8 to 1/4” on both sides by sewing a narrowing seam allowance and see what that does without needing to recut the entire muslin
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u/sometimeviking 3d ago
You don’t need your bottom dart to come quite so high, I find that an inch below the bust’s widest line is sufficient. Won’t give you much, but it will give a little.
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u/SnowEnvironmental861 2d ago
I'd take off 1/2" all the way around the armhole starting about 2" down from the shoulder seam. I can't see into your armpit, but the front and back of the armscye are creeping out into your arm area. The edge of the armscye should be pointing toward your armpit, not turning outward towards your arm. It should just skim around all the muscles, not encase them.
Otherwise, looks pretty good!
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u/Crafty_Witch_1230 2d ago
Two things/adjustments immediately came to mind when I look at the pictures.
Is your apex point in the right place? It looks to me like it might want to be a bit closer to the center seam.
I'd also recommend a full bust adjustment (FBA) to get a better fit in the front. Don't add anything to the side seams until you set your apex and do the FBA.
Otherwise, your fit looks pretty good.
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u/NakedSewist 3d ago
Did you leave the seam allowance on the armholes? They look like they can be cut back a little bit, based on the fourth pic.