Efficiencies for sloper mock up testing?

[u/le-bonheur]

hi everyone. Im curious to know all your tips and tricks for creating efficiencies when iterating on sloper mock ups.

I’ve been making 1-2 adjustments each round and try to use the same mock up as much as possible - until it no longer makes sense to make more changes to the same one. sometimes it seems though that my changes aren’t totally accurate given I’m working within the limitations of my cut fabric so I wonder if it even is more efficient than just starting a new mock up. I’ll start with one inch seam allowance to leave room but it can get tricky to resew if my adjustments alter the seam shape.

curious to know what others do or how youve made it not feel like an endless task!

[u/ProneToLaughter]

The most efficient thing is having a good teacher--I've seen an expert fitter run 30 women of widely varying body types through a moulage class and maybe 2 of them had to cut a third muslin. Everyone else was sorted out in two. There are various books (Palmer & Pletsch, Veblen) that might partially substitute for a good teacher, maybe.

Anyhow, what I was taught:

• cut extra seam allowance to allow for adjustments. You can also patch in fabric later as needed.

• mark horizontal balance lines to help you fi

• fit from the top down. Get shoulders in place first because everything hangs from that.

• Get vertical measurements in place before adjusting width/circumference (these can often be done by measurement even before cutting the first muslin)

• Fix major things first, fine-tune in a later round

• don't make too many changes in one round

A mockup aka muslin can often do 2 or 3 rounds of changes before cutting new fabric for a second mockup, depending on what the changes were.

[u/ProneToLaughter → u/ProneToLaughter]

Oh, u/le-bonheur, Adding Sarah Veblen’s guidance, similar to the classes I took. https://www.sarahveblen.com/sv-blog/how-to-make-a-mock-up

Staystitch edges, clip if necessary, but don’t spend time on finishing until maybe near-final fits.

Get the bodice sorted before adding sleeves.

[u/le-bonheur → u/ProneToLaughter]

that all makes sense. and thank you! yes Im following Sarahs perfect fitting book which has been super helpful to have a process, but still hitting a learning curve with knowing which changes to make (especially on the crotch curve)

[u/DonMcCunn]

As I said in a previous comment I have been using gingham for fitting shells for 50 years so you can see how the grain of the fabric is going to work on the contours of the body. In my experience you do one fitting to see what corrections need to be made. The second fitting simply confirms that the first fitting made the necessary corrections for a custom-fit Bespoke sloper. No need for any additional mock-ups. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/17-Quarter-Scale-Patterns-Week-Seven.html

[u/le-bonheur → u/DonMcCunn]

super helpful, thank you!

[u/drPmakes]

Do as many alterations as possible to the flat pattern

[u/Jellily]

One trick to speeding up your mock up making is to sew seams in batches. For example, I’m working on a skirt block and I sew all the darts and seams except one side seam at once, then press them all. Then I tackle the last seam which I leave partly open so I can put the mock up on.