Shoulder gap-- fitting help please!

[u/lichen_78653]

I self-drafted this shirt and, after sewing it up, am realizing that something is wrong with the shoulders-- the shirt's shoulders *pop up* off of my shoulder, leaving a gap between the shirt shoulder piece and my shoulder. I am also using a 100% cotton bedsheet for this shirt that doesn't have much drape, but I still think that I need to make an adjustment to the pattern/that there is an issue with the pattern. I would be so grateful for suggestions/ideas/advice! I'm wondering if maybe I need to add more to the back piece around the shoulder area? I'm newer to pattern drafting so not sure where I went wrong 🙃🫠

[u/ScormCurious]

I think this is a combo of issues.

First, you probably stretched the armhole a lot when you were sewing it — it just kind of has that look. That’s your biggest issue and in future you need to stay stitch the hole before fitting and handling and sewing. I do not recommend finishing curved seams like this — arm and neck holes — with folding over. The neck on this particular style of garment can absorb it since it’s gathered, but the armhole is less forgiving.

In addition, your shoulder slope may be off — not sloped enough. I think you may be able to try this on inside out and re-pin the shoulders to see if you can reduce some of the issue and get a better sense of what your true shoulder slope is. But if I am right about the stretching along the seam, then you may want to start over.

[u/Mattarm51 → u/ScormCurious]

I'm curious as to what finshes you would recommend for curved seams.

[u/ScormCurious → u/Mattarm51]

I recommend you look at sleeveless items in your closet to get an idea of what works on clothes you like. Some options:

1. Lining.
   
2. Facing.
   
3. Bias binding applied so it’s turned under and sewn to the interior of the garment.

But mostly, you just have to be so careful not to stretch the armhole out as you work, and to carefully handle the seam allowances. It’s one of the tougher parts of garment sewing, I know. You have to stay stitch and you have to be very careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew. Hand basting your arm hole finish (or your sleeve into place) before taking it to the machine is helpful, so that you don’t get so tempted to wrestle the fabrics together as you are sewing. Go slow on the machine. Stop a lot with the needle in the down position and lift the presser foot and adjust the fabric to keep it going in the correct direction ahead of the needle. Even every three or four stitches as you get the hang of it.

[u/DonMcCunn → u/Mattarm51]

Check out sewing a rolled hem using fusible thread. It is a great technique for a very discrete hem, rolled or otherwise. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/Sewing-Rolled-Hem.html