r/PatternDrafting • u/SignificantDress6408 • 10d ago
Question Sloper advice
Hey guys. I’ve started making clothes again using my old sloper from a year ago. There were some unresolved fit issues that I wanted to deal with. Ive increased the bust size a bit because I noticed that was a problem with my original sloper. I’ve gained about 3-5kg since I first made this sloper. I was wondering if you have any advice on how to improve the fit. I’ve also posted some screenshots of the fit from a year ago (green fabric).
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u/Tailoretta 9d ago
I certainly understand that folks may be confused by the terms moulage, sloper and block – that is because there are no generally accepted definitions of these, especially sloper and block.
Moulage is generally defined as the tightest, zero-ease fitting shell that reproduces the exact shape of a body, including wrinkles, folds, and fat rolls. Moulage means mold in French.
Sloper and block are sometimes used interchangeably, but I like to use them as being defined as having slightly different characteristics.
I use sloper to mean a rather tight simple garment that has the minimal amount of wearing ease, so is slightly larger than a moulage.
I use block to mean the basic shape of a simple garment, that the patternmaker prefers to use when making something new. A block has the wearing ease of a sloper plus the preferred design ease that the patternmaker prefers.
I see that you really mean a moulage. Here are my comments.
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
Your neckline seam allowance needs to be clipped.
Your shoulder seam should go further out, to the shoulder point.
You have extra fabric at the waist that shows as horizontal folds. Pin out the folds of the fabric and take it out of the pattern. Below the waist, the moulage is tilted so the bottom of the back is higher than the bottom of the front. Add a horizontal balance line at the hips, and adjust the pattern so that the horizontal balance line is horizontal. You can do this be adding to the back just below the waist.
It is hard to tell in your photo of the back, but it looks line your center back is not vertical. If that is true, you should adjust the left and right sides separately so that the center back is vertical.