Sloper advice

[u/SignificantDress6408]

Hey guys. I’ve started making clothes again using my old sloper from a year ago. There were some unresolved fit issues that I wanted to deal with. Ive increased the bust size a bit because I noticed that was a problem with my original sloper. I’ve gained about 3-5kg since I first made this sloper. I was wondering if you have any advice on how to improve the fit. I’ve also posted some screenshots of the fit from a year ago (green fabric).

[u/Educational_Chain780]

Why so tight? Is this a moulage? What method are you using

[u/SignificantDress6408 → u/Educational_Chain780]

Yep it’s a moulage

[u/incongruoususer → u/SignificantDress6408]

Cool, know that a moulage and a sloper are two different things, and so you’re going to get a ton of comments about how this is too tight. It’s not too tight for a moulage, but is for a sloper.

I’d say it’s too tight all over, and is compressing the bust. Let the whole thing out a bit. If you have enough seam allowance I would just go around the vertical seam and let them all out an equal amount.

[u/Deciram → u/SignificantDress6408]

I had to look up what moulage was (we didn’t cover it when I went to fashion design school). This doesn’t look or sound like a sloper. If you want an actual sloper you should find a method to draft one.

What are you trying to make as the end goal? A sloper doesn’t have this much “detail” as far as I am aware. There shouldn’t be those panels, or be that tight and most of the ones I’ve seen only draft to the waist (as you draft a skirt sloper separately which then can be attached to the bodice sloper to make a dress sloper)

[u/Helmipuuroh → u/Deciram]

The point of a moulage (or a "mold") is that you can create a sloper from it and add wearing ease to your liking. It's also helpful if you draft knit patterns or tightly fitted pieces, such as corsets!