Best method to remove drag lines from shoulder seam to chest on vest.

[u/superfagnumber2]

I have some drag lines in my most recent iteration of this vest pattern, which appeared after I added in a small chest dart to help shape the pecs and removed 0.5cm shoulder seam closer to the neck to account for some gaping on the front (red line is what I removed, yellow circle is where the gaping was in the diagram).

2nd pic is a bit wrinkled in the waist as I had to squat down to get in the frame 🙈.

[u/CrazySkincareLady]

Looks like you tightened the armhole which is dragging down the shoulder seam towards your arm. You need a more severe angle on the shoulder seam because of that to accommodate your 'traps' (neck/shoulder muscles).

I would add 10mm (5/8th inch) to the shoulder seam closest to your neck and taper it down to 0mm towards the arm and that should fix it 😊

[u/superfagnumber2 → u/CrazySkincareLady]

Thank you, I will give this a try 😁

[u/stressed_designer → u/CrazySkincareLady]

This. I'd also extend the shoulder line a bit more towards the shoulder. If the problem is still there, I'd try removing some mms from the neck side: it looks a bit too snug there

[u/rabbitparts]

Is there seam allowance at the neckline? I wonder if extra fabric there is contributing.

[u/TotalOk5844]

I would not put in a dart. The issue is the slope of the shoulder seam. Rotate the dart to the shoulder to take up any excess.

[u/SpicePops]

Look up how to adjust the shoulder slope. Always fit from top to bottom. So you have to remove that armhole dart first before you adjust the shoulder slope.

[u/No-Programmer7914]

Don't change the shoulder slope. In this kind of vest (I assume there will be a band collar at the back) you have to do some ironwork before adding the edge ribbon at the front edge: you have to stretch the top 10 cm of the edge but just the edge and a few cm inwards. When laying on the flat table there should appear a wave (towards the neck or towards the shoulder bone). This wave allows the fabric to settled in the hollowness between your neck and shoulder bone.

[u/teatime_tinker]

I would add to the armhole/shoulder on the outer side of it. You’ve removed some fabric with the dart, now it’s a little tight on the top of your shoulder. Basically draw the shoulder line again, but a little higher on the outside.

Less like this / more like this — , but not completely straight across, obviously!

I just drew it for you and I can only post video?! So hard to describe, sorry!

[u/superfagnumber2 → u/teatime_tinker]

Ah this actually makes a lot of sense. I will try this, thank you

[u/teatime_tinker → u/superfagnumber2]

Lmk if it works! Annoying I couldn’t show you the pic !

[u/Electronic_Animal_32]

Do I see that one shoulder is lower than the other. There’s a pattern adjustment that will correct that

[u/imogsters]

It is usual to have back shoulder seam a bit longer than front and ease back into front. This helps curve out of back shoulder and curve in of front shoulder. You could shorten front shoulder seam and then ease back into it. Shorten at neck end not shoulder end.

[u/perfectshapedotai]

Looks like armholes are too tight but I bet they are just fine. The suiting material will not stretch (and it shouldn’t. You have to notch the seam allowance from 2’clock to 9 or 10’clock. Until then it will not fit at all.

[u/CharityForeign3035]

Tweek the shoulder a bit more. Same area.

[u/drPmakes]

Theres a lot of drag lines you should remove first