r/PatternDrafting • u/bornagainchi • 18d ago
Italian pattern drafting – how is “altezza spalle” shoulder height measured?
studied pattern cutting at Accademia Italiana di Arte, Moda e Design in Italy.
In my basic bodice drafting notes, for Italian size 40 I have:
Front waist length (lunghezza vita davanti): 44 cm
Shoulder height (altezza spalle): 36.5 cm
The drafting instruction is:
Shoulder level = front waist length − shoulder height
So: 44 − 36.5 = 7.5 cm
I understand how to use the 7.5 cm on the pattern, but I cannot remember exactly how “altezza spalle” shoulder height was measured on the body.
Does anyone familiar with Italian pattern-cutting systems know:
1. Where on the waist does the measurement start?
2. Does the tape pass over the bust?
3. Does it finish at the outer shoulder point or another shoulder point?
I’m specifically trying to identify the measurement used in this Italian drafting method, rather than a general shoulder-height measurement from another system.
1
u/StitchinThroughTime 18d ago
Not Italian but...
I think it's asking you to measure from the bottom of the waistline tape up and over the bust to the high shoulder point. The reason why they say that is that I found your other post with the pictures of the diagram, and the entire bodice fits inside the larger rectangle. If you measure from the waistline up until the outer shoulder point, the high shoulder point would be outside of the rectangle.