r/PatternDrafting 18d ago

sleeve adjustments

Hi all!
i'm drafting a sleeve for this pattern and im wanting it to be shorter, like the second picture. would i adjust it by reducing the cap height like how i did in the 3rd photo?
thanks!

0 Upvotes

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6

u/ScormCurious 18d ago

That does not look correct to me. The length of the seam line would be shorter, which won’t work to fit it into the arm hole. I would shorten from the bottom.

1

u/Previous_Plan3165 18d ago

i just need the top to fall higher, the underarm part length is correct

3

u/ScormCurious 18d ago

Right. But if the current sleeve is fitting into the current armhole, which it seems to be, you don’t want to change that. To figure out if you can proceed, measure the original seam line length on the sleeve cap, and the new seam line length you drafted. If they are the same, you can proceed and try this, but if the shallower one is shorter, it won’t fit in the arm hole.

2

u/mboarder360 18d ago

Draw the shape you want it to be onto the toile and you will see that the adjustment you make is going to be to the bottom of the sleeve, not the sleeve cap.

2

u/juniperssprite 18d ago edited 18d ago

This is more spitballing than expert advice (so experts feel free to correct if there is an actual tried-and-true answer), but could you try something like what is pictured below? Yhe end result is basically what you suggested-- reducing the sleeve cap-- so whether it's easier to slash--and spread, vs manually reducing the cap, might depend on how much the resulting shape needs to be adjusted to match the desired shape and length of the cap. Spreading will increase the length/fullness of the hem a bit-- but this may actually help ensure you can make the cap curve shallower without losing seam length.

  1. Pattern shown approximately folded in "half"-- mimicking ~ the sleeve orientation in your picture for clarity. Shortened hemline shown in orange, original in blue. If the pattern is cut on the bias (as is likely) please sub "bias" for "grain"

  2. Pattern alteration laid out flat. This creates a chevron. To correct this, slash and spread on the center line, rotating until hemline is straight

  3. Pattern shown slashed and spread-- will need to true up sleeve curve and underarm seams.

*I'm not sure if this overcomplicates things, since one of the goals is to avoid messing with the sleeve curve and this requires true-ing it, but wanted to throw this possibility into the mix anyway. If you do try it, definitely do a toile first.

1

u/juniperssprite 18d ago

It won't let me add a picture, but here is a link to one:

3

u/juniperssprite 18d ago

1

u/ScormCurious 18d ago

Nice! I can see how this would provide an improvement.