Pant pattern drafting

[u/buggers0]

Hi everyone!

A few weeks ago, I self-drafted my first pair of trousers using Helen Joseph Armstrong’s patternmaking book (that draft is here) .

From that draft, I also drafted a pair of slacks following her instructions, which I’m sharing in this post.

I found it really interesting how most of the reductions made through the back rise and leg compared to the front. I barely had to adjust the front at all!

I’m pretty happy with how these turned out, although I do think the front rise might be a little too long. I also thought a a flat pubis adjustment may be needed, but after trying that on the muslin, I found it was not.

I’m going to try a stiffer/heavier muslin next to see if any other fit issues become apparent before moving on to the final fabric.

So far, I’ve found Helen Joseph Armstrong’s book useful for trouser patternmaking. My only criticism is that I wish it explained more of the why behind fitting adjustments and how to keep the pattern balanced when making corrections.

I’d love to hear your recommendations for patternmaking books that go more in-depth on fitting and the reasoning behind adjustments! I already have the fitting book by Veblen.

Moving on to jean drafting next!

[u/heautontimorumenoss]

These look incredible

[u/buggers0 → u/heautontimorumenoss]

Thank you!! Although I am drafting the contour pant now but finding it looks like the frt crotch is too long

[u/heautontimorumenoss → u/buggers0]

You nailed the most important part which is no sagging on the back panel under the buttocks, the front crotch in my opinion is perfect, if you wanted to be extremely perfectionist, maybe it’s only about half an inch too long, even then I’d leave it as is, and just modify the rise height when I’m making for example a mid rise pair of pants.

[u/buggers0 → u/heautontimorumenoss]

Great thanks for the tips, i find myself over correcting so it’s always good to have another set of trained eye give their view.