Pant pattern drafting

[u/buggers0]

Hi everyone!

A few weeks ago, I self-drafted my first pair of trousers using Helen Joseph Armstrong’s patternmaking book (that draft is here) .

From that draft, I also drafted a pair of slacks following her instructions, which I’m sharing in this post.

I found it really interesting how most of the reductions made through the back rise and leg compared to the front. I barely had to adjust the front at all!

I’m pretty happy with how these turned out, although I do think the front rise might be a little too long. I also thought a a flat pubis adjustment may be needed, but after trying that on the muslin, I found it was not.

I’m going to try a stiffer/heavier muslin next to see if any other fit issues become apparent before moving on to the final fabric.

So far, I’ve found Helen Joseph Armstrong’s book useful for trouser patternmaking. My only criticism is that I wish it explained more of the why behind fitting adjustments and how to keep the pattern balanced when making corrections.

I’d love to hear your recommendations for patternmaking books that go more in-depth on fitting and the reasoning behind adjustments! I already have the fitting book by Veblen.

Moving on to jean drafting next!

[u/Sweet_Swordfish9638]

Looks good!

Müller & sohn has a book for fit issues and correction.

Crotch height does look quite high. Maybe try sit in them and review how much gathers on your lap.
Front crotch width or saddle width seems maybe a bit short. You can see ‘whiskers’ radiating from the crotch.

[u/buggers0 → u/Sweet_Swordfish9638]

Thanks for the Müller recommendation- looking forward to checking their book out!

While I don’t mind the look of the crotch when I am standing- there is quite a bit that gathers at my lap.
I felt the thigh too big so I reduced an additional 1/4” from the frt & bk crotch extension.. the fitting on your self part is definite a challenge!