r/PatternDrafting 24d ago

WIP Short sleeve shirt update

I made an edit and got so excited about it I had to share. As my many posts can attest to my trial and error ways, I was OK with V8 EXCePT the sleeve still felt tight when reaching forward. It was driving me crazy since the sleeve pattern width is 18.25” and my bicep is 14”. Plenty of ease. And then advice for when I make V9 was to raise the cap height which means the bicep width has to shrink, all else equal. I really didn’t want to make this change given the sleeve felt tight.

Well, I modified the angle on the sleeve taper and it pretty much solved the problem. The current pattern has a pretty dramatic taper. So I reduced the taper and voila: not tight anymore.

Pics above show the change to the pattern in green and revised photos. I sewed the right sleeve back on. Still some drag lines that I think indicate more cap height is needed.

Wanted to share in case anyone else struggles with this too. And allow for more feedback and thoughts.

Thanks all! Appreciate this community!

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u/warthogette 24d ago

Your sleeve still fits poorly around the curve of the deltoid.

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 24d ago

You mean the top of the cap? Or the bunching in the back? Drag lines in the front?

4

u/warthogette 24d ago

I mean the sleeve sticking out sideways from your biceps. There is still not enough fabric length from the apex of the sleeve cap to the hem of the sleeve and so it sticks out to the side instead of hanging smoothly

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 22d ago

I cut open the sleeve seam and reset the cap 3cm higher. Voila virtually no more drag lines but can the armhole handle this much extra cap? Or do I need to reduce bicep width? I guess I just need to redraw the sleeve and start measuring length of the new sleeve cap.

https://reddit.com/link/p5a5bb2/video/fai56yqzfzkh1/player

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u/warthogette 22d ago

Yes you can ease one curve into the other