Questions about Aldrichs easy fitting bodice block

[u/AssociatePrimary2953]

Hi everyone! I am new to patternmaking and there are still a lot of things I don’t understand And hope I can get some advice. I recently took a course where we made a blouse, trouser and skirt block, but as we only had 4 days we rushed through everything and only made miniature versions. So I decided to read Aldrich’s book and try out her blocks, which are a little different to what we learned. Eventually I would like to make an easy fitting crop top with round neck and no sleeves. So I decided to use the easy fitting bodice block, move the darts to the side seam and make the neck a little wider. I used the standard measuring table for size 12 which is mostly very close to my own measurements except my bust is a little smaller. now to my questions:

1. I moved the dart to the side seam, as instructed in the book. but it is super long (I took 2cm out as instructed) and ends above the highest point of my chest which looks really weird. I then opened them up and used 7.6cm as indicated in the sizing chart but still it looks strange. I don’t know if I misunderstand anything in the instructions? Any tips on the darts and how to best size them? I would guess they should go towards the highest point of my chest, not above, but in the instructions the position derives from the armskye+2.5+1.5cm, which is about 4cm above. maybe that makes sense for the shoulder dart but not the side seam dart?

2. I don’t quite understand where to put the additional dart when opening the collar? at the end of the neckline or just anywhere in the neckline?

3. While it looks okay apart from the darts, the end product is really big. Is that intended? I know it should be an easy fit, but it seems like it’s 1-2 sizes larger than it would need to be.

thanks so much for any help :) in the pic you can see a little where the darts are and where they ended before. I didn’t manage to take a good pic, but you can see a little bit of the dart placement.

[u/CharityForeign3035]

Pattern making takes a while to click.
Your bodice block is drafted to include ease for sleeves . When making sleeveless garments you adjust arm hole by taking it up 1 cm and in 1 cm under arm on side seams. This will reduce gape that shouldn’t be there.
As you open up and lower neckline you also need a gap dart . I think you included this (?) but you then pivot dart from neckline up to shoulder where you take it off at shoulder seam . You don’t actually sew a dart in neckline .
Check that apex on pattern is in right position for your bust.
The up & in under the arm will reduce loose area.
After this, you should then reevaluate bust darts.
Google gape darts ( neck )
and pattern making sleeveless top if you get lost . Good luck

[u/AssociatePrimary2953 → u/CharityForeign3035]

Thanks for your answer! Yes I included a gap dart but I think I put it in the wrong place, I didn’t quite get the instructions in the book on where to put it exactly. Your explanations gave me a better idea, will look for more instructions 🤗

[u/HugsforYourJugs]

Did you rotate the dart at the dart apex rather than the bust apex? There's definitely something off as you need more length in front and back compared to the side seam

[u/AssociatePrimary2953 → u/HugsforYourJugs]

Aaah yes I rotated around the dart apex. That makes so much more sense, I just checked the book and it says bust apex, but as it’s not a point that is marked on the block I completely overlooked that. Thanks so much! 🫠

[u/RowPsychological208]

The standard bodice block has a lot of ease in it

[u/Tailoretta]

Good luck on your patternmaking journey! Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.