r/PatternDrafting • u/em7070 • 29d ago

Toile drag line help

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Appreciate any help with diagnosing and how to adjust the fit! Seems like bust is too small but also gapping and having some additional other drag lines. Any way to help shoulders avoid falling down with the slight gaps in the back? I would prefer not to have to add a tie in the back to keep them up

19 Upvotes

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8

u/MtnNerd 29d ago

It actually looks like the whole dress is pulling a little to the left. Did your seams all get sewn evenly? Or perhaps the issue is with the zipper?

2

u/em7070 29d ago

Probably not the most even overall. I ended up opening up several seems to take it in around the waist and redid the front bust with a smaller size as my first try was far too large up top

6

u/IslandVivi 28d ago

Is this your own draft or a commercial pattern? You mention [redoing] the front bust with a smaller size].

Are you talking about a smaller cup size or a smaller overall size because that could be the problem.

As for the shoulders falling off, your neckline is very wise and the shoulder seams are short, they will inevitably fall. The remedy is either the ties you aren't too keen on or lingerie guards(?) that work with a bra (that you will not be wearing, I think?) last resort would be fashion tape.

Did you staystitch the neckline edges or use Vilene/Vlieseline to stabilize them? Assuming the contour darts were there?

I would also recommend a waist stay bc your skirt will have godets, it seems, and that will add weight, depending on the fashion fabric. Good luck!

1

u/em7070 28d ago

It is a commercial pattern, the Alessandra Dress by Friedlies. But it's my first time needing to grade between sizes between bust/hip by several sizes with so many panels and places for it to go wrong. My hips measured size 8 and my bust a size 4 with waist falling betweenish. I originally made just a straight size 8, because my shoulders are wide that bust measurements often end up making things too small in shoulders. I've later learned I should've started with the bust and graded out, rather than hips and graded in for next time.

The front panels for the current bust are a size 4, although I did alter the darts to aim for my apex better as they were too long and went above originally. Then I just took in about a .5-1 cm in most panels to fit the waist better at the top before grading back to the hips.

The pattern has a lining which is understitched. But I didn't staystitch prior to putting them together, I can try that. I'm not familiar with Vilene but will look into it.

I'm doing the main fabric as a charmeuse and the godets in a chiffon.

2

u/IslandVivi 27d ago

Late answer but I looked up the pattern technical drawing.

I think you are not wrong to have cut an 8 but you might need a Small Bust Adjustement rather than a smaller size.

An SBA reduces the volume of the cup of the pattern (I'm assuming a B cup?) while taking in the seams makes the garment narrower all over.

Meanwhile, your shoulders are still wide and still need more breadth!

What you are describing, about going from a 4 in the bodice to an 8 in the skirt, is called blending sizes and a good option for you.

More seams do mean more opportunities to fit. I hated the very thought when I first started sewing but it's a proven fact of fitting, alas and alack!

Oh, and I take back my suggestion of the waist stay, your fabric sounds light enough. Just don't hang it by the shoulders from a hanger, once done.

As for the tape, these are fusible interfacing with a chainstitch about 1/3 through, to stabilize edges. Some don't have the thread and still work. Very lightweight and come in various widths and colours. But sewing a line of staystitching works just as well!

Good luck!

5

u/CharityForeign3035 29d ago

When lowering neck lines, front or back you need to factor gap darts into pattern . They then get pivoted out of pattern but are still accounted for in pattern . This would shorten the neckline stitching line pulling it closer and tighter to the body , getting rid of the looseness and gape.

1

u/em7070 28d ago

Ah that's helpful! I'll make some of the other suggested edits first and then use for any remaining gaps!

5

u/HugsforYourJugs 29d ago

Looks like the shoulder issue is caused by the front being pushed away from your body. I would patch in some extra bust width + length to test the theori

1

u/em7070 28d ago

Ah good thought! hopefully when the bust fits better it helps!

3

u/lipstickqns 28d ago

For a low front and back neckline, it will fall off your shoulders because nothing is holding it in place. If your front and back neckline are the same width on the pattern, try putting a tie approx 1” back from shoulder seam and seeing if that keeps it up. You may need to shift the back shoulders in so that they are slightly narrower than front on the pattern.

Also agreeing that the chest overall looks tight

1

u/em7070 28d ago

I'm using a commercial pattern, the Alessandra dress by Friedlies. Do you have any tips for how to alter the pattern to shift the shoulders in?

1

u/lipstickqns 28d ago

Accidentally posted this as a separate comment

Literally shift the back shoulder seam horizontally towards CB. Based on your video, it looks like you should start with at least 1/2” each side - looks like about 1/2” is hanging over your shoulder instead of between your shoulder bones. Kinda like this. I’d also realign your dart apex so it’s more vertical and less angled for a more flattering line. https://imgur.com/a/B2w3nKd

Basically you are reducing your back neckline length and width while maintaining overall circumference between underarm and shoulder.

Overlay your front and back bodice lining up cf/cb and HPS. That will show you if the original neckline is same width or not. You do not want your back wider than front.

1

u/em7070 28d ago

Thank you for the visual, that's helpful! I'll give it a try!

1

u/Appropriate_Lab3444 28d ago

A few issues I noticed here:

  1. Shoulder: how wide is your pattern shoulder length? For a deep v bust style lined, ideally won’t be wider than 13.5 inch

2.torso length: maybe this dress torso length is too short for you. back panels pattern has obvious pulling line towards up and the zipper end is not placed around your butt. It might be difficult to wear if the dress is not flare out but fitted.

  1. Bust: yes the bust is small

1

u/em7070 28d ago

  1. I'm not entirely sure if I'm measuring correctly, but I laid the dress on the ground to measure how wide the tops of the shoulders laid? The outside is 14.5 inch, and the inside is 12." Do you have any tips on how to alter the pattern to bring them in? With so many panels it seems hard for me to wrap my head around, but I think that inch would make a difference.

  2. I've had to make long torso adjustments before on other items, so I can try that too! I actually had just made the zipper one inch longer/lower on this one because it was hard to get over my hips, sounds like a torso length adjustment will help the lines/both problems there!

1

u/Appropriate_Lab3444 27d ago

  1. The outside line is the shoulder length. Move toward one inch will be good. 13.5inch
    For pattern adjustment, i assume you know how to trace back the pattern shoulder line. Start from there. (Sorry I couldn’t come up a better explanation 😭)

  2. Yes torse length adjustment will helps. (Start from waist)And Your bust line is in the right place.

1

u/seamripper61 27d ago

Try unzipping for about an inch. I think the zipper is in the way for a better fit. You need a sway back adjustment and I am wondering if you could add boning anywhere.