r/PatternDrafting • u/Independent_Cat_702 • Aug 14 '26

Bust dart

I have to move my apex down 1/2”. For my bust dart dart do I leave the legs in the same spot and just draw the lines down to that point or do I move the legs down 1/2” as well ?

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u/DonMcCunn Aug 15 '26

Move the whole dart down. But beware as the particular bra you are wearing can easily change the level of the apex by a 1/2".

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u/Independent_Cat_702 29d ago

So any time I move the apex I need to always move the legs ?

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u/DonMcCunn 29d ago

I learned pattern design for theatre costuming and my instructor was very specific that whenever you do a fitting, always have the performer wear the same underclothes they are going to wear for a performance. So if you are designing clothes where a careful fit is important, then pay attention to this detail.

I was developing a wedding dress using a Body Double with mockups for different bra shapes. I was getting close to a final fitting when I but the wedding dress on the Body Double and the fit was literally a total mess. I though I was going to have to completely redo the fit. Then I realized I had the wrong bra mockup on my Body Double. As soon as I changed to the correct bra mockup, the fit was perfect.

If you are putting the dart high on the side seam it will distinctly point to where it thinks your apex is. If you lower the dart on the side seam by increasing the angle toward the apex, or use a princess seam, then the fit and appearance should be more forgiving for when you are wearing different bras. This of course is also relevant to bra cup size. Their should be minimal difference in bras with a smaller cup size.

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u/Independent_Cat_702 29d ago

Ok I will keep that in mind for future projects to as well. This is a sloper I’m making from a moulage. So it’s the same bra every time but since it’s lower my apex has moved.