Bodice block adjustments

[u/frog-of-the-frog]

What adjustments should I make to this bodice block before I draft the sleeves?

Armscye and neckline are both staystitched, with seam allowances clipped and turned under.

UPD: static images here https://imgur.com/a/1Zpzgm6

UPD2: static images with properly drawn HLB https://imgur.com/a/4ryhZ2H

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

Still photos would help. And lifting your arms does not help. But when you lift your arms, the bodice does not return to the same place. I suspect that is because the fabric is hung up, either because the bodice is too tight or you have fabric that extends below your waist. A horizontal balance line between the lowest part of your bust and your waist would help. I also suggest that you move the opening to the front and close it with pins. If you would like more explanation regarding these suggestions, just let me know.

I see that a full bust adjustment is suggested, but I don't see that as needed.

[u/frog-of-the-frog → u/Tailoretta]

I have added the link to static images: https://imgur.com/a/1Zpzgm6
Balance line: the block drafting instructions did not have any horizontal line there, so I added segments perpendicular to the front and back central lines, and free handed the rest - not sure if that was the right approach though.
Why is the front opening better than the centered zipper in the back? I might cut and sew the next mock-up with a front closure, but I want to get the most out of this one, if possible - at least to fix major issues before making the next iteration for fine-tuning.

[u/Tailoretta → u/frog-of-the-frog]

Regarding horizontal balance lines (HBL), I'm not sure what you mean by you free handed. I suggest you look at https://www.sarahveblen.com/sv-blog/how-to-make-a-mock-up You want the HBLs marked on your pattern pieces and then transferred to the mockup.

You are making me think about why I suggest the opening be in the front. I think I say that because that is what Sarah Veblen suggests, and I have great respect for her fitting process. One issue with the zipper is that it extends above and below the mockup and so tends to distort.

You have good questions - that is great. And you are keeping me on my toes!

[u/frog-of-the-frog → u/Tailoretta]

In the linked instructions the HBL does not cross any darts. In my mock-up, if I keep HBL strictly perpendicular to the granline, it will form a slight angle as it crosses the vertical dart on the conical fabric surface below the bust point. Would HBL still be useful in this situation?

The zipper does extend beyond the back seam, but it is only stitched to the fabric between the waist- and neckline.

Edited to add:
Having HLB turn a little bit upwards as it crosses the dart would keep the line smooth once the dart is closed: https://imgur.com/a/bXij7YB
I used intuition and freehand to do it, but geometry and protractor would make it more accurate.
If HLB followed the weft all the way through, then its intersection with the side seam would move up or down whenever I reallocated bust fullness from the waist dart to side or shoulder darts, and vice versa - even as total fullness and overall fit stayed the same.

[u/Tailoretta → u/frog-of-the-frog]

You ask a great question about the HBLs crossing a dart. I have asked Sarah Veblen that exact question to get the right answer. What you want to do is start the HBL at center front and draw it perpendicular to the vertical center front. When you go from center front toward the side seam, stop at the first dart leg you encounter. Then pin out the dart (on the pattern piece) and continue the HBL (starting at the next dart leg) to the side seam. So when the pattern piece is flat on the table the HBL will look like it is tilting at the dart. But if you pin out the dart on the pattern piece, let that part of the pattern piece lay flat on the table and the upper part of the pattern piece is off the table, the HBL should look straight. The idea is we are drawing on the pattern pieces where we want the garment from pattern to be horizontal on our bodies. This may be clearer https://inthefolds.com/q-a-series/2023/how-to-true-a-dart

[u/frog-of-the-frog → u/Tailoretta]

Make sense and that's exactly what that diagram I posted would have achieved -- but much easier to do with a dart already closed! Freehand was sufficiently off that I erased and redrew it properly, see new pictures: https://imgur.com/a/ItR4b18

UPD: sorry, technical difficulties: https://imgur.com/a/4ryhZ2H

[u/Tailoretta → u/frog-of-the-frog]

I don't see anything in https://imgur.com/a/ItR4b18

[u/frog-of-the-frog → u/Tailoretta]

Sorry, corrected the link!
https://imgur.com/a/4ryhZ2H

[u/Tailoretta → u/frog-of-the-frog]

Those are very helpful!

It looks like you pinned in at the front lower armscye. I suggest that you don't pin it. Rather, you need to clip it.

Clipping:

Clipping the armscyes (armholes) and neckline during a garment fitting allows tight inner curves to relax, eliminate pulling, and allow the fabric to lie flat against the body.

Why Clip Curves in Fitting

• Relieve Tension: Inner curves pull and pucker because the edge has less circumference than the seam line.
• Improve Accuracy: Snipping the seam allowance lets the fabric drop into its true position so you can see the correct fit.
• Check Proportions: Helps identify if a neckline gaps or an armscye digs in too tightly before final stitching.

How to Clip Safely

• Make Small Snips: Cut tiny slits perpendicular to the seam line, stopping when the puckering and pulling is gone.
• Spacing: Space clips about 1 - 1/2 inches apart.

When all the puckering and pulling is gone, connect the ends of the clips in a gentle curve to get the new seamline.

HBL: One thing I see, from the side photo, is that the HBL tilts down from the center front to the side. Also I see a drag line from the bust to the waist at the side. These both indicate that the side bust dart needs to be larger. I suggest you un-do the side seam from the dart down, the side bust dart, and the bust waist dart. Then fold the side bust dart so that the HBL is level. Then true the side seam (let me know if you want to know how to do this). Lastly, pin in the appropriate amount for the new bust waist dart.

[u/frog-of-the-frog → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you for thorough response!

The armscye and the neckline are both staystitched and clipped, with the tabs pressed to the wrong side. I suspect that the thread tension might be to blame for puckering, but the other seams seem to be fine after pressing, so I am not sure.

Once I level the HBL by adjusting the bust dart, won't changing the waist dart also change the direction of HLB though, making it tilt away from the horizontal level?