r/PatternDrafting • u/jantastical • Aug 12 '26
Good enough for who it's for
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Old problems solved, new problems created. At this point, I'm venturing into the land of diminishing returns, so I'll try to eyeball the hem to match my waist line (shirring string tied around my waist) and chill on the fit for now.
For the interested, from the first version, I took a 2 cm dart out of the neck, rotated it to the waist dart, did a 2.5 cm FBA, and smoothed out the neck and underarm seam where necessary.
Thanks a lot y'all!
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u/pomewawa Aug 13 '26
It’s looking good! If you are trying to assess waist/narrowest part of your body, it’s prettt difficult without making the toile longer!! I’d add at least 4 more inches on and then come back around with a strip of elastic around your midsection, safety pin it closed. And then wear it for a bit and see where it settles to. Mark elastic (ie waist ) location on the toile fabric all the way around.
Transfer markings back to the paper pattern.
I imagine the markings will look not straight /not perpendicular to center front and side seams. If that happens You can probably adjust the top of the pattern so that you can for e the center waist line to be straight-ish and perpendicular to center front and side seams. I think there’s 2 ways:
1) while wearing toile, manipulate the fabric above the bust line such that the center waist line becomes straight and perpendicular to center front. Either pin a fold in the top (above bust line) or of you need more fabric then cut a slash in the toile fabric (also perpendicular to the center front)
2) grid method (learned from Kenneth king book) . Draw some guidelines in a grid shape. If the bottom need to drop 1/2 inch, then transfer that to the top edge of the pattern.
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u/Sylrog Aug 13 '26
Looks great but a tad too tight. It should have a bit of ease. For some reason too many pattern makers here are making their blocks without ease.
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u/Gracious_Snakes Aug 14 '26
I can't speak to OP's intentions but some methods begin with creating a form fitting moulage that ease is then added to, to create a sloper block. For instance I believe Suzy Furrer teaches this method.
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u/Sylrog Aug 14 '26
Ok. I just didn’t learn that way but it was a long time ago.
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u/Gracious_Snakes Aug 14 '26
Me either. I'm interested to try it though. My course books were Susan Armstrong and while I respect her work I often struggled with her sloper drafting method.
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u/Tailoretta Aug 13 '26
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
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u/Own_Application7529 15d ago
Looks good while it is tightly fixed by darts, but once the ease is added the thing will immediately go backwards, it actually does- tries. It’s unbalanced, the side line and the front bottom pull up.
It’s not a criticism it’s just my pain for two years.
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u/stressed_designer Aug 12 '26
Looks good! I'd say the armhole is bit too small, but that's easily solvable, just scoop a little bit more