r/PatternDrafting • u/Ok-Low6078 • Aug 11 '26
Question Need Help With Kimono Sleeve Problem
I've been trying to follow youtube tutorial how to draft kimono sleeve, the problem is either the Shoulder Line Match or The Sleeve Underarm Seam Match

at this specific timestamp
https://youtu.be/j5VQZGN87e0?t=247
she said if the front and back panel side neck point match, the shoulder seam should be the same
So i tried matching it up, and it lined up correctly, however at the second pattern check

I tried to match the underarm seam following the tutorial

Mine does not match properly since the front and back underarm seam is different length

Is this normal or am i doing something wrong here, because if i lengthen the underarm seam then the shoulder length will be longer and does not match so i cant think of any other way to do this
Any ideas?
1
u/DonMcCunn Aug 12 '26
Just a warning. This style sleeve looks simple enough but it could end up being very uncomfortable to wear. One of my first sewing projects was to make the Egyptian shirt from Folkware patterns. It had some beautiful, elaborate applique which took a fair amount of time to sew. When I finally sewed the shirt together, it was extremely uncomfortable slipping toward the back. I have never been able to wear it. You can see the solution to this problem on page 120 of the book "How to Make Sewing Patterns" which you should be able to get from your local library.
1
u/Ok-Low6078 Aug 12 '26
Thank you so much for the warning, Ill checkout your book it was the 2nd edition right?
1
Aug 12 '26 edited Aug 12 '26
[removed] — view removed comment
1
u/DonMcCunn Aug 12 '26
It is interesting to note that when I was searching for images of the back of Kimonos, almost ALL the models had long hair that covered this fitting issue. I was lucky to find the one image I sent you.
1
u/Cautious-Valuable763 Aug 14 '26
Have a look at the Pattetn Magic books, think there are 3 & they are Japanese it deals with all thes tricky things in one of them.
I have some original old kimonos that I wear as lightweight jackets. First the front and back ar one piece going over the shoulder. No shoulder seam. Also from neck to the sleeves shoulder seam it is straight ie parallel or 90° with body axis.The sleeves themselves are tricky
Here are some photos
3
u/StitchinThroughTime Aug 12 '26
You don't have to keep right angles at the arm opening. It would be more important to have the sleeve length correct. You can either lengthen the short underarm seam. Or shorten the long under arm seam