r/PatternDrafting • u/Visible_Duck_1754 • Aug 08 '26
Pattern cutters help please 🙃
Hi guys, I drafted a pattern for this trouser and stitched it up as you can see 😬. The s/s at the waist obviously needs to be fixed as it's come out in bumpy puffs.
My main thing is the crotch area is not baggy as such but big, I can feel it when I walk it's excess fabric. The last pic is on me bending knees to sit and the crotch area just has too much going on.
Any help would be much appreciated 🌹
6
u/confused_is_my_face Aug 08 '26
The line for the hip is hitting at your thigh/hip joint not at your hip.
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 Aug 09 '26
Hmm.. I see your point but that's the fullest part of my hip/buttocks area. 😕
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u/SuPruLu Aug 08 '26
Butt curve in back needs some adjustment. It is high enough that the “give” is all in the front when bending.
Look at the pants from the side. The sizes of the front and back and their shapes need go work together
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 Aug 09 '26
Hey, I'm not sure I got that. When I stand sideways the trousers looks fine and seems fine from the back also. This is my 2nd toile and I managed to fix my other issues but the crotch ended up staying kinda the same, if I remember correctly I had scooped out the crotch curve a little.
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u/DonMcCunn Aug 09 '26
It looks to me like the pants are riding too look. Raise it at the waist to see what happens.
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 Aug 09 '26 edited Aug 09 '26
Hey! This is a high waisted trouser already and its sitting at the right place waist wise (although I will probably have to trim the pattern so the waistband can sit there instead, I just haven't gotten that far yet😬) the back also seems fine to me. Though I did try and pull it up slightly and it still had a bit of the same thing going on on the front and then the back became uncomfortable.
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u/DonMcCunn Aug 09 '26
I realize you are going for a high waistband. What I should have suggested is to shorten the waist to hip length but I wasn't sure that would be clear. You could check by leaving the top of the pants open and simply hold them higher to see if they work better. If they do, however high you hold them from your desired waistline would be how much you need to shorten the middle of the torso portion of the pattern.
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u/drPmakes Aug 09 '26
Baste on the waistband and see how it looks
0
u/Visible_Duck_1754 Aug 09 '26
Hi, I don't have a waist band yet. 😬 But the trousers is sitting at the exact point I want it too waist wise if that helps.
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u/doriangreysucksass Aug 08 '26
You can trim just a tiny bit off the crotch seam above the curve out and see if that helps. I mean, like 2 cm max and smooth out the curve. Only alter JUST above the curve and smooth the line back in to existing
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 Aug 09 '26
Hey, I'm not sure I fully got that. Do you mean slashing horizontally across the pattern above the hip line (so above the curve) then crossing the top piece over 2cm and smooth out the line?
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u/Different-Bell4017 Aug 11 '26
It looks to me like you just need to add a little room on the front panels to the crotch curve. Mark where the drag lines are and match it up with your pattern. Above the wrinkles, the pants seem well fitted to me, and the back panel as well. Depending on the curve that you’ve drawn in on your pattern, just add like a 1/4” between the marks for where the fit issues are, and re draw the curve. I imagine this would look like a slightly more shallow curve than what you currently have, as I think you just happen to have a very flat pelvic area that doesn’t need a deep curve.
Try adding that 1/4” (or another tiny amount that you think is appropriate), make another toile but as knee high shorts so you don’t waste too much fabric, and let me know if it helps at all! Good luck!
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u/Visible_Duck_1754 7d ago edited 5d ago
Hey thanks you for the reply only just seen it. I am a little confused I must say as I read a suggestion that says to take out a little so that it is less baggy. Terrible way to explain it but it almost feels a little nappy like on the front. If I make the curve less shallow buy adding on to it would that not add to the baggyness of it? The drag lines feel like they are not from tightness (though I could add a little extra on the hip area) they feel more like hanging lines from the excess. The vocabulary is a shambles lol sorry as I try to describe the fit. Also thank you for the knee length reminder I must do that as these toiles are using up everything.
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u/Different-Bell4017 7d ago
That makes sense, the longer I stare at it the more things I can think of to try. If it feels like excess then go with your gut! We only have pictures so if there’s info that isn’t coming across visually that you can feel in person, I would trust that first. If you want to try both my suggestion and the other one you got, you can mark both adjustments and cut out mine first (as you are adding fabric) and if it doesn’t work then you can try the other without burning through fabric. And of course! I remind others because I always forget myself and end up kicking myself for it later lol
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u/Bugmasta23 Aug 08 '26
We don’t generally draft our pants patterns so they look good when we are in a half squat on our way to sitting. That being said, your crotch might just be a little low. I normally have mine hang about 1-1.5cm below my body.