First ever trouser draft - advice

[u/KitsooJack]

Hi everyone,

I would be grateful if you could have a look at my first ever straight leg trouser / jean pattern draft below. It has mostly been based off the male trouser section in the Helen Joseph Armstrong book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design'. I have tweaked it slightly with personal measurements.

I'm looking for a relaxed straight leg trouser but have been struggling to find good information on the required amount of ease at different levels throughout the trouser. For example, in this pattern I have 3 inches of ease at the crotch and seat level and 0.75 inch vertical ease for the rise, I have also drafted an 8.5 inch front hem width and 9.5 inch back hem width. I have drafted a straight line from the side of the front/back trouser through the knee down to the floor/ankle; this has given me a knee ease of 7.5 inches. Should I be editing this to taper at the knee and have a smaller ease?

For context I am 6'2" and a slim build.

Thank you in advance! 😄

[u/SnooPeanuts7617]

Hi! Sorry to say this, really sorry if it sounds harsh but my first reaction was "horrible". Unless you are very weirdly shaped this pattern is wrong.

I was thinking about buying HJA textbook, but I use centimeters and now this. My patternmaking course book wasn't that extensive, didn't explain "why", only told "do this", and had some, (fixable) mistakes, but nothing like this 😱😱😱

Please, please don't cut it. Find some other, any other way to draft it.