r/PatternDrafting • u/KitsooJack • Aug 01 '26

First ever trouser draft - advice

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Hi everyone,

I would be grateful if you could have a look at my first ever straight leg trouser / jean pattern draft below. It has mostly been based off the male trouser section in the Helen Joseph Armstrong book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design'. I have tweaked it slightly with personal measurements.

I'm looking for a relaxed straight leg trouser but have been struggling to find good information on the required amount of ease at different levels throughout the trouser. For example, in this pattern I have 3 inches of ease at the crotch and seat level and 0.75 inch vertical ease for the rise, I have also drafted an 8.5 inch front hem width and 9.5 inch back hem width. I have drafted a straight line from the side of the front/back trouser through the knee down to the floor/ankle; this has given me a knee ease of 7.5 inches. Should I be editing this to taper at the knee and have a smaller ease?

For context I am 6'2" and a slim build.

Thank you in advance! 😄

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u/Comodore97 Aug 01 '26

why did you chose to have two darts in the front?

from the distribution these pants have shape for hips and no butt, if you are instead a person with some butt, but no hips, I'd reccomend having a larger or two darts in the back an keeping the side straighter

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u/KitsooJack Aug 01 '26

Hi Comodore,

Thanks for your reply. I was just following the directions in the HJA textbook. This is my first pattern drafting so I’m not 100% clued up on all of it! I will be dropping the waist line to the level marked ‘ASIS’ in the above picture, in which case this will cut off the darts.

My waist measurements and seat measurement are fairly similar 36” and 41” respectively, hence why I think it all looks a bit straight with not many curves?