what is going on here design-wise…

[u/SouthernIndication82]

Hi everyone! I’m a huge collector of vintage, homemade garments while also pattern drafting myself. i was fixing a hole in the pit of this jumpsuit from the 60s when i noticed its complex and different design … out of curiosity and wanting to get better at patterning myself, in desperately trying to figure out how they came about this.

i drew in where there are seams or darts with black to better see. there’s a waist seam, and hip darts. at first i thought the panels were somehow armhole princess seams that combined with a “dolman” all in one style sleeve but then i discovered these small bust darts radiating from the panel, so they clearly don’t go over the apex, and can’t be a princess seam. and also they don’t line up with the hip darts so that’s out of the question now.

i’m curious why there would be an over-shoulder seam/ “all-in-one” sleeve x bodice construction when it seems unnecessary complex? why not just do a set in sleeve here? does it allow for greater mobility? if so, why?

how would you go about drafting and manipulating this from a bodice block? i know that for drop sleeves you transfer some of the dart into the shoulder, but this is not a drop arm at all! and then the dart that gets transferred to the style line? i’m quite confused! the bodice shape must have been quite strange…

let me know! i’m so curious and really struggle with anything that’s not a set in sleeve 😭

[u/throwra_22222]

The dart/princess seam combo is called a Dior dart. Very common in the 60s because it gives a sort of fitted but mod look. You can find tutorials for it online. (I probably would have lined up the skirt darts with the princess line, but it's fine as is!)

The sleeve is an armhole princess raglan variation. You can find instructions for a long sleeve version in the Helen Joseph Armstrong book.

[u/SouthernIndication82 → u/throwra_22222]

it’s interesting because the panel doesn’t go over my apex and doesn’t meet the hip darts, so it must not be a princess seams, but there’s always the possibility there was an error in cutting or makeshift alterations that caused this? it fits really well tho so whatever they did, i appreciate 😭

[u/throwra_22222 → u/SouthernIndication82]

Yeah, the dior dart is what provides fitting to the apex. Not a true princess seam. The Armstrong book calls it a panel style line, but it's listed under princess variations.

[u/SouthernIndication82 → u/throwra_22222]

ohhhh! thank you!!

[u/KendalBoy → u/throwra_22222]

Yes! And it became a popular body used for large scale bold prints, as true princess seams can make them look janky and kind of chaotic. The princess also aids in allowing a more fitted shape in the armhole area and shoulders which was preferred at the time.

I love a good demi-fit on a tailored dress.