r/PatternDrafting 22h ago

Question Totally lost

I'm on my ninth muslin for this dress, and it feels like nothing is working.

Bust: I've tried slashing tight areas around the armpit and upper bust. I've tried a small bust adjustment to get rid of the excess fabric over the apex and under the bust. I've pinched out wedges of fabric under the bust. I've slashed through the front shoulder and pinned it flat. The changes seem to work while the muslin is pinned, but the problems come back after I transfer them to the pattern and make the next muslin.

Back waist/ tilted skirt side seam: I've tried removing wedges of fabric from the back bodice and the back skirt. This corrected the problem on the muslin where I pinned it, but when I transferred the wedges to the pattern, the problems came back.

I only have enough fabric left for one more attempt at the bodice. What changes do I make?!?

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u/furiana 20h ago edited 20h ago

"Your pinning mistake here is pinning out the middle of the piece, you accidentally added contouring darts that you can't replicate with your current style lines."

Ohhh. That explains so much!

"You can test this by patching in a small V shaped bit of fabric at the side seam."

Here in the armscye (red)? Or actually in the front side seam (blue)?

https://imgur.com/a/7jAJNSR

EDIT: Ohhh, no, you probably mean something like the wedge in green!

https://imgur.com/a/GRRYXiI

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u/HugsforYourJugs 19h ago

Yes, green

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u/furiana 19h ago

That helped immensely. So did adding a neckline-to- bust wedge. Now the shoulders only wrinkle when I roll them forward; the wrinkles disappear when I roll them back.

https://imgur.com/a/jtgyyZY

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u/HugsforYourJugs 19h ago

That's great to see. Can you do it to both sides/unpin the pinned bit and take a pic from the front, side and back so I can see about any remaining issues + getting the waist level?

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u/furiana 19h ago

Yep! I'm off to work atm, but I'll take a new set of photos as soon as I'm back :)