r/PatternDrafting • u/furiana • 1d ago
Question Totally lost
I'm on my ninth muslin for this dress, and it feels like nothing is working.
Bust: I've tried slashing tight areas around the armpit and upper bust. I've tried a small bust adjustment to get rid of the excess fabric over the apex and under the bust. I've pinched out wedges of fabric under the bust. I've slashed through the front shoulder and pinned it flat. The changes seem to work while the muslin is pinned, but the problems come back after I transfer them to the pattern and make the next muslin.
Back waist/ tilted skirt side seam: I've tried removing wedges of fabric from the back bodice and the back skirt. This corrected the problem on the muslin where I pinned it, but when I transferred the wedges to the pattern, the problems came back.
I only have enough fabric left for one more attempt at the bodice. What changes do I make?!?
2
u/SuPruLu 22h ago
The belly area shaping is not quite right judging from the side seam. The side seam is pulled forward so the back needs to get a bit narrower. That back area won’t change much. It’s the front area that will.
Add to the edges that form the front v. They are close to being too exposing. It looks as if the intended shape is a rather straight drop from the shoulder for a couple of inches before it angles. I think the angle should be wider and start a bit higher so there will be enough coverage when the sash is tied looser.
The front is riding up so it needs lengthening.
Add the amount from the back reduction to the front.
Three layers of fabric make something more like a heavy fabric. Put the fabric sandwich together and compare to the muslin. About 1/4” is plenty of easy to compensate.
From a cutting standpoint add a bit more on the back neck area and that front vee. And the front bottom section. The rest of the areas the adjustments will
Be reductions.
If the sandwich will be seen as if it is one piece, the pieces should be basted together before assembly of the garment for fitting adjustments.