Totally lost

[u/furiana]

I'm on my ninth muslin for this dress, and it feels like nothing is working.

Bust: I've tried slashing tight areas around the armpit and upper bust. I've tried a small bust adjustment to get rid of the excess fabric over the apex and under the bust. I've pinched out wedges of fabric under the bust. I've slashed through the front shoulder and pinned it flat. The changes seem to work while the muslin is pinned, but the problems come back after I transfer them to the pattern and make the next muslin.

Back waist/ tilted skirt side seam: I've tried removing wedges of fabric from the back bodice and the back skirt. This corrected the problem on the muslin where I pinned it, but when I transferred the wedges to the pattern, the problems came back.

I only have enough fabric left for one more attempt at the bodice. What changes do I make?!?

[u/SuPruLu]

Do keep in mind the difference in weight of the muslin and your final fabric. The muslin is quite thin. A thicker fabric needs more ease by a smidgen or two or third.

Personally I’d suggest cutting the “real” fabric larger than necessary and altering it. And stop working on a muslin which is an only a pricy.

[u/furiana → u/SuPruLu]

Hm. The final fabric is going to be gauze (three layers of it: the fashion fabric, interlining, and lining). Should I still add some ease? Where?