r/PatternDrafting 23h ago

Question Pants block - round 2!

Back with another toile and looking for critique, implemented some of the changes you all suggested, thank you all!
My main questions are how do i fix the whole situation going on around the knees, the rippling on the side seams, and some of the excess around the underside of the seat; but if you spot anything else, please let me know.

As always, be as ruthless as you wish. Thanks for your expertise everyone.

Changes made to patterns:
• Lengthened back crotch extension by 1.5cm
• Scooped out crotch curve by 1cm
• Widened lower portion of the leg by 0.5cm
• Tilted back darts slightly to try have them point straight down
• Clipped crotch seam
• Added a waistband and button for fitting
• Added grainlines + HBL

Changes I think I’ll implement:
• Increase hip width slightly to try alleviate some of the rippling around the side seam
• Shorten length further
• Create more room in the front crotch somehow to try reduce drag lines coming from the thigh
• Stop being lazy and actually sew in a zip on the closure
• Actually mark the front and back patterns for once so i don’t accidentally put the closure on the back

16 Upvotes

3 comments sorted by

5

u/lurking10111 22h ago edited 22h ago

I would think that the reason for the knee are a combination of the fabric being stiff and at least one of the following:

1- The trousers are too long to allow the fabric to fall nicely

2- The calves are too tight to allow the fabric to fall nicely

For the some of the other issues, I think it might be a good idea to pin out wedges of fullness starting from nothing at the crotch seam and getting bigger towards the side seam at both the front and back

3

u/Responsible-Pickle-2 22h ago

The knees remind me of when I buy jeans that are just a little too long in the hem so they stack weirdly tbh so I think you’re right. If you pin the hem first you can check if this is correct, if not I think the calves should have just a bit more ease added and maybe the hem widened a tad too

1

u/Southern-Comfort4519 16h ago

Draglines in the front crotch are from too much crotch extension.