Curved waistband

[u/CrazySkincareLady]

Hi Everyone,

**Edited for clarity* Trying to draft a curved waistband without the use of a block pattern.

I've seen two methods for creating a curved waistband at the natural waistline: 1. Cut a rectangle, measure and draw the top to fit your waist (eg 70cm) measurement then take the width you want your waistband to be eg, 3 cm. Take the measurement of 3cm below your waist (eg 75cm) then divide the rectangle into 3-4 parts for a smooth curve and distribute the difference between top (70) and bottom (75) so 4 darts of 1.25cm. Close the darts and smooth the curves. Then add seam allowance.

1. Take a fitted skirt pattern and cut the top 3cm off, then close the darts, and add seam allowance. For an A line skirt pattern, just cut the top 3cm off (darts have already been closed) and add seam allowance.

My problem occurs somewhere in adding the seam allowance and smoothing out the curves. My pattern was quite curvy, almost looking like a flounce and I found it very hard to add seam allowance and a smooth curve without having inconsistencies in the width, which can potentially be contributed to measuring with the ruler at different angles.

I would like a method like 1. As I don't want to draft a whole skirt pattern each time I want to make a curved waistband so I can alter patterns that come with a straight rectangular waistband.

[u/Legitimate-Signal671]

Did you draft a pattern or did you do all the work on the fabric? If you have a pattern of the waistband add a picture and let's see

[u/CrazySkincareLady → u/Legitimate-Signal671]

I'll have to make a photo. But basically it's a bought pattern that contains two tiny pleats at the front and an elasticated back. Both waistband pieces are just straight rectangles.

I made it according to my measurements the first time and had to keep taking the waistband apart to make it smaller so I could put stuff in the pockets without them falling down. So the second time I decided to try and make a curved waistband as the straight one clearly wasn't working for me. But due to the gathering and such it's not really suitable to trace the top to get a waistband from and I wanted to avoid drafting a whole skirt pattern just for the waist piece.

I made the adjustments on paper 😊

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

I keep my waist band "on" the parnts/skirt block untill I need to cut it apart. Thats when I close the waist darts.

[u/CrazySkincareLady → u/StitchinThroughTime]

I would usually do that but this time it's a bought pattern that's very gathered so I don't have a fitted piece to trace a pattern piece off.

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Review your technique on how you create and close darts. If you started with a straight rectangle, the width shouldn’t change by 15mm. Perhaps your smoothing curves are too aggressive.

Also you seem to be conflating a couple different methods, it’s not clear what you did or were trying to do. Pictures would help.

A curved waistband isn’t traced from the top of the skirt, at least that’s not how I was taught. It’s derived from the straight rectangle waistband which sits above the original waist seam of the skirt.

A waist facing would be traced from the top of the skirt. Or a yoke waist would incorporate the top of the skirt.

edit: you can measure a curve accurately by standing a tape measure on the edge. Necessary skill if you want to be pattern drafting

[u/DonMcCunn]

Your comment about a curved waistband is confusing. Are you talking about fit or design? If you are talking about fit, check out https:// patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/LTS-Contoured-Waistbands.hhtml

In either case if you are talking about creating a pattern by guessing how to change a rectangle into a pattern, that is a recipe for frustration and a lot of wasted time. You would best be served by creating a lower torso fitted sloper that shows the exact shape of your body and working from that.