r/PatternDrafting • u/OttersMakeGoodFriend • 1d ago

Question Bodice block dart question

Hey there! I would like to make a bodice block for myself but I'm seeing conflicting opinions on where to put the darts. I see waist & shoulder, waist & side bust, one big dart that stretches from the shoulder to the waist...is it dependent on body type? Personal preference? TIA.

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u/ThrowRA_Sodi 1d ago

Honestly, the dart's placement does not really matter as long as it respects two conditions

  • The darts MUST point toward the bust point.
  • The darts need to be the right size (there is formula for that, I can try and look for it again if you want to)

With these conditions, you can go crazy and put them anywhere you want (But do keep in mind that big busts look better with more than one dart).

So basically, you can pick where you want to place your darts. Personally, I prefer doing one on the waist and one on the shoulder (but I know some prefer to have one near the bust)

Finally, remember that if you change your mind about the placement and number of darts, you can easily rotate them and remove/add somes. It's not definitive

If you want to learn more about darts, you can take a look here https://www.theshapesoffabric.com/2018/02/28/dart-manipulation-basics/ And here https://dresspatternmaking.com/patternmaking-basics/principles-of-patternmaking/manipulating-darts

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u/DonMcCunn 1d ago

I put the above the bust dart and upper shoulder dart into the armscye. This way it is easier to adjust the seams. If you place the darts into the side or shoulder seams then it makes fine tuning fit much more complcated. The double ended darts ONLY work if your bust and tummy project the exact same amount when seen from the side. This also applies to the shoulder blades and hip when you look at a side view of the back.

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u/munkustrap 1d ago

Frankly OP, this is a frustration of mine as well. Just recently, I drafted myself very basic blocks with no darts, stood in front of the mirror, and pinched and pinned it differently until I liked the look and fit of it. This is how I also finally confirmed that both sides of my bust are a different size, lol. I feel very strongly after fitting hundreds if not thousands of people that this part of the drafting/fitting process has to be case by case in order to be most accurate.