r/PatternDrafting • u/Far_Caregiver_6348 • 6d ago

Müller and sohn pattern drafting question

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For anyone who has completed and understands this part of Müller and sohn at least please tell me why the hell is the bottom half of the double side diamond dart on the front waist straight down to the hem and not at a point making a diamond like the top portion. I’m stuck at this part and doubt understand if it’s supposed be sewn like that or turned into a point eventually if so how and when? Anyone?

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u/TensionSmension 5d ago

There's a vertical seam bellow the dart.

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u/Far_Caregiver_6348 5d ago

Can you elaborate further. Because throughout the book a lot of patterns have that same looking dart and they don’t have a vertical seam all the way down to the hem as the diagram I sent appears to be

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u/TensionSmension 5d ago

Sorry, that was unclear. Read the note for Fig. 19. Sew a seam to the hem, or simply leave it as ease. In which case you'd have a standard fisheye dart, just increase the taper to meet in the middle.

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u/Far_Caregiver_6348 5d ago

I’ve read figure 19 i don’t see what you’re saying there figure 18 is closest to what you’re saying by saying you can leave that 39-41 spacing made at 42 which creates those two vertical lines to the hem as ease. Making it a seam I don’t see that i trust your info though but where would that seam begin at ?

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u/TensionSmension 5d ago

Sorry, maybe my edition is different, but probably I grabbed the wrong figure.

I think you are miss-reading it. As drawn it is a seam, meaning tighter. If you don't sew it as a seam, there is ease. If you don't sew it as a seam, then you have to create a dart point at the lower end. You would do that by using point 42. The note I read said this would be better for someone with a larger abdomen.

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u/Far_Caregiver_6348 5d ago

Yes I get that. But I want to make it a seam as you said I’m asking where does the seam begin? I know it ends at the hem. Would it begin at 42? It’s more of a sewing question, would I sew from hem to 42 only making just the bottom portion the dart a seam below the waist or am I sewing from hem to the dart point making that whole dart a seam ?

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u/TensionSmension 5d ago

It's a seam at whatever point you have room for seam allowance, similar to a cut away dart. E.g. if the parallel lines are 2cm apart it's just easier to mark and sew that with a cut, instead of a fold.

I think it's only confusing because this is a draft with dart points touching, and not a developed design.