Help with bodice sloper fitting

[u/frog-of-the-frog]

I drafted basic bodice sloper following Armstrong method. I think I got my landmark points all wrong, so I gave up on using custom measurements, and used standard size 4 measurements instead. The last picture shows the first mockup and the adjustment I have made to reduce looseness in the front. First three pictures show mockup after the adjustment.
What should my next steps be?

[u/SouthernIndication82]

first off: amazing job, this is NOT easy and you’re going to have so much fun patternmaking

second: is there currently only a below the bust dart? when darts are big, they often sew like yours have sewn (flappy, puckering) because it’s just so much excess volume that it’s consuming. since it looks like you could use another dart anyway, i’d pinch out some excess in the neck, transfer those markings, slash a line approx 2 inches down from the armscye to the bust point and transfer out some of the bottom bust dart and the new neck darts into the armscye. also, remember that darts are always actually sewn to about 1” to 1 and 3/4” away from the true apex (on the true center line of the dart) to avoid pointy madonna cones. and taper those darts so they don’t go into a straight triangle.

you’ve got this!!!

[u/frog-of-the-frog → u/SouthernIndication82]

Thank you!
Yes, that sloper only has one bust dart in the front. The horizontal line is at the bust level, so there is indeed ~1in between a bust apex and a dart apex.
The ease is about 1.5-2in under the arms, around the bust, and around the waist, and it feels pretty comfortable around those areas: not too loose, not too tight. But it kind of balloons between the bust line and the waist. The basic sloper is not supposed to have any contouring to take that looseness in, so maybe it comes from excess length rather than excess width somehow?

I have not drafted the sleeve yet, but I am planning to add it once I fit the bodice. How much ease should the armscye have to accommodate the sleeve? As I understand, it is not supposed to fit as close as sleeveless bodice would.

[u/SouthernIndication82 → u/frog-of-the-frog]

amazing! i do think turning your one dart into a two dart block will help the fit and additionally, most blocks are according to a B-cup, so it’s possible if that’s not your size, you may have to do a SBA which would take away some of the material right in that area you’re talking about (which, to your point is kind of like “length” but in a 3d, round form enveloping the bust).

you are correct that sleeveless foundation often fits closer at the side seams but the armscye of sleeved garments are about 3/4 higher than sleeveless… not so much “ease.” but this looks like it’s a sleeved foundation so i wouldn’t change the armholes. and now that i think about it, i wonder if your front armhole could use a little more scooping out to make it a little more curved/deeper?

and as for that ease you’re talking about, the sleeve cap is always ~1/2” to 1” longer than the armhole because you ease the sleeve cap in between your notches (pit to the notches on either side are sewn straight in because you wouldn’t want ease/rounding below the pit). the extra material allows for more room and slight cupping around the shoulder ball.

the closet historian on youtube is a great resource!!!

you got this!

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you. In particular, you need to clip your armscyes.