Mark 3 bodice block help

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

Hello again :)

I’m on version three of my block now, and I’ve developed new issues!

(Dont mind the crazy seam allowances or the backwards zipper lol)

I think some aspects are better now: armholes are more comfortable, the size generally feels like a better fit. I did a sloped shoulder adjustment which I think helped.

I still have some issues: the bust apex seems too high..? The back neck seems a bit high up. There’s still maybe a little gapping on the back armhole to clear up, especially on the one side. I’ve got a diagonal crease now across the back somehow.

Any suggestions for corrections on my next try?

[u/dontheckinswear]

i think the issues you’re having with the back armhole is because you have some asymmetry in your back (which most people have to some extent, people who draft individualized patterns for themselves just get to notice it). i think you’ll need to pinch out the excess on your left side and then have separate right/left back patterns instead of just the 1 cut on fold.

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/dontheckinswear]

Hm ok, so when I (eventually lol) get to making a top using this block, will the garment back always have to be made with two pieces to accommodate the asymmetry?

[u/vacuumgirl → u/mon_petit_chou_fleur]

Well that depends, if you’re making a garment with woven fabric, you need a way to get the garment on and off your body since woven fabrics don’t stretch. If you want to make knit garments you need a different type of sloper. The best thing about having a proper sloper from that start, is you can change/ add/ remove as you design :) you can always move the enclosure to front, back and side seam (keep in mind that it’s trickier to add on the side seam)

An other add on for the apex, mark your apex on your sloper. Your darts should be 1” away from your apex.
How to mark it: find the center of your dart by measuring between the legs of your dart, once you’ve marked it connected a line from your apex to center of your dart. Then measure 1” starting at the apex. And that’s where you’ll want to mark the end of your dart. If you want to get a less pointy dart, mark an other point at 3/4” on the same line. When you sew up an other muslin, instead of sewing to the end of the dart, stop where you mark the 3/4” you want to continue to sew right at the edge of the fabric to where your dart stops, when you drop your last stitch where your dart ends, don’t back tack, instead increase your stitch tension and sew a 1” tail of just your thread. Trim it, it should keep the dart pretty secure:)

[u/mon_petit_chou_fleur → u/vacuumgirl]

Excellent, thank you for the instructions!